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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Excessive Headspace!
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<blockquote data-quote="specweldtom" data-source="post: 339277" data-attributes="member: 2580"><p>Johnny S and KDB, unless it was for a dangerous game rifle, I would set headspace as tight as it would go and still chamber unfired brass. I believe it helps with accuracy, brass life and safety. I have had 2 rifles that would not close on a go gage, but would chamber new brass. I left them that way. They never gave any problem of any kind and were very easy to full length resize. The rationale for me is that the Saami spec go gage is long enough to allow any brand of Saami spec ammo to chamber in a gun, so there is already quite a bit of room in a chamber that can just barely take a go gage. </p><p></p><p>On go and no-go gage lengths, I've never checked the difference in the belted magnum go and no-go gages, (I don't have no-go's) so I don't know what the differential is, but from memory, the headspace gages for shoulder headspaced cartridges that I do have both gages for allow about .006" differential. </p><p></p><p>I like to use go gages and shims like Chad, and I prefer go gages of the same brand as the reamer. I haven't bought a no-go gage in a long time, but I still use them in Garands and M1-A's.</p><p>If either one of them will close on a no-go, It has to be rebarreled. I've swapped out a lot of bolts, and never had one that would make up more than .0015", and that's not enough to bring a gas gun far enough back from maximum headspace. I have the G.I. field test bolt and gage for M1-A's, but never used them. </p><p></p><p>Sorry about getting long-winded, but headspace is critical, and there is no excuse for getting it wrong. The reason for no-go gages is safety. Excessive headspace can be catastrophic. If you want to crowd a headspace gage, go for tight, not loose. Anything over no-go is unacceptable, and .005"-.010" over no-go is scary. Don't fire another round until it's set back and headspaced properly, whoever you have to get to do it.</p><p></p><p>Good luck, Tom</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="specweldtom, post: 339277, member: 2580"] Johnny S and KDB, unless it was for a dangerous game rifle, I would set headspace as tight as it would go and still chamber unfired brass. I believe it helps with accuracy, brass life and safety. I have had 2 rifles that would not close on a go gage, but would chamber new brass. I left them that way. They never gave any problem of any kind and were very easy to full length resize. The rationale for me is that the Saami spec go gage is long enough to allow any brand of Saami spec ammo to chamber in a gun, so there is already quite a bit of room in a chamber that can just barely take a go gage. On go and no-go gage lengths, I've never checked the difference in the belted magnum go and no-go gages, (I don't have no-go's) so I don't know what the differential is, but from memory, the headspace gages for shoulder headspaced cartridges that I do have both gages for allow about .006" differential. I like to use go gages and shims like Chad, and I prefer go gages of the same brand as the reamer. I haven't bought a no-go gage in a long time, but I still use them in Garands and M1-A's. If either one of them will close on a no-go, It has to be rebarreled. I've swapped out a lot of bolts, and never had one that would make up more than .0015", and that's not enough to bring a gas gun far enough back from maximum headspace. I have the G.I. field test bolt and gage for M1-A's, but never used them. Sorry about getting long-winded, but headspace is critical, and there is no excuse for getting it wrong. The reason for no-go gages is safety. Excessive headspace can be catastrophic. If you want to crowd a headspace gage, go for tight, not loose. Anything over no-go is unacceptable, and .005"-.010" over no-go is scary. Don't fire another round until it's set back and headspaced properly, whoever you have to get to do it. Good luck, Tom [/QUOTE]
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