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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Excess headspace - Win M70 30-06 pre-64
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<blockquote data-quote="jdyoung" data-source="post: 1942735" data-attributes="member: 113391"><p>I have a 1917 Enfield that was given to me when I was a teenager, 30-06 spr. It has what is termed " excessive headspace". (<span style="font-size: 12px">f</span><em><span style="font-size: 12px">ield gauge closes very easy</span></em>), I have always reloaded for it, specifically neck sizing. That was so the cartridge would form to fit the chamber. But as you state, those cases have to be dedicated to that specific rifle. I do that by only using one brand of brass case for it. Lake City Military Brass is what I use for that rifle. Heavier wall and in theory it will take a bit more stretching than thinner commercial.</p><p></p><p>Over the years I learned how to form cases a little easier than "conventional fire forming".</p><p>I.E.: Loading it, driving to the range shooting, going home , reloading , driving back to the range, shooting etc, until the cases fit the chamber. Tended to get expensive when gas prices were way up.</p><p></p><p>Now, I expand the case neck to the next size caliber , resize to create a false shoulder, shoot it to fireform.</p><p></p><p>To do this, I use a Sinclair Expander Body and a Sinclair Expander Mandrel of the next size caliber. That would be .338". <em>(some might say 8mm, but .338" always worked well )</em></p><p></p><p>Prep the cases and expand the necks to .338" with the Sinclair Expander Mandrel in the Sinclair Expander Body. (<em><span style="font-size: 15px">I deprime and de-crimp in a beginning step of case prep)</span></em></p><p></p><p>Then I apply a light coat of Redding/Imperial Sizing die wax to the case neck.</p><p></p><p>I prefer to follow that coating with some Powdered Mica, it is white and provides a visual check as the die is adjusted and case is sized.</p><p></p><p>Back your sizing die out a turn or so. To start, you only want to size 2/3 of the neck length, maybe a little more. Run the waxed/coated neck case through a sizing die, BUT don't do a complete stroke till you are confident how much of the neck is being sized. Like I said, you only want to size 2/3 of the neck back to .30 caliber as a start. The powdered mica is white and you can see the line on the neck "walk " toward the shoulder as you size the case and adjust the die.</p><p></p><p>Remove the cocking piece/firing pin assembly from the bolt.</p><p></p><p>Put the partially sized case under the extractor and gently chamber it.</p><p>You want feel just a slight bit of drag as the bolt handle closes.</p><p></p><p>Keep adjusting the sizing die to size the neck closer to the shoulder, chambering the case as you go to get the right feel as the bolt handle closes.. (<em>If you get too much buildup of sizing wax/mica, wipe excess off so it doesn't dent the shoulder, but you still want some lube on the case. Run a patch into the chamber every now and then to eliminate the wax/mica buildup.) </em></p><p></p><p>You are creating a "<strong><em><u>false</u></em></strong><em> <strong>shoulder</strong></em>" between the case neck and shoulder that will fill the chamber.</p><p></p><p>When that is done, you can "COW" them or charge the cases with a beginning load and fire . This eliminates the "false shoulder" and gives a fireformed case without the bullet touching the lands.</p><p></p><p>Also, you might want to make note of the water weight your newly formed cases hold . You are creating a sort of a "wild cat" and if you have a computer program such as QuickLOAD, you can be a bit more precise indicating the water weight.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="jdyoung, post: 1942735, member: 113391"] I have a 1917 Enfield that was given to me when I was a teenager, 30-06 spr. It has what is termed “ excessive headspace”. ([SIZE=3]f[/SIZE][I][SIZE=3]ield gauge closes very easy[/SIZE][/I]), I have always reloaded for it, specifically neck sizing. That was so the cartridge would form to fit the chamber. But as you state, those cases have to be dedicated to that specific rifle. I do that by only using one brand of brass case for it. Lake City Military Brass is what I use for that rifle. Heavier wall and in theory it will take a bit more stretching than thinner commercial. Over the years I learned how to form cases a little easier than “conventional fire forming”. I.E.: Loading it, driving to the range shooting, going home , reloading , driving back to the range, shooting etc, until the cases fit the chamber. Tended to get expensive when gas prices were way up. Now, I expand the case neck to the next size caliber , resize to create a false shoulder, shoot it to fireform. To do this, I use a Sinclair Expander Body and a Sinclair Expander Mandrel of the next size caliber. That would be .338”. [I](some might say 8mm, but .338” always worked well )[/I] Prep the cases and expand the necks to .338” with the Sinclair Expander Mandrel in the Sinclair Expander Body. ([I][SIZE=4]I deprime and de-crimp in a beginning step of case prep)[/SIZE][/I] Then I apply a light coat of Redding/Imperial Sizing die wax to the case neck. I prefer to follow that coating with some Powdered Mica, it is white and provides a visual check as the die is adjusted and case is sized. Back your sizing die out a turn or so. To start, you only want to size 2/3 of the neck length, maybe a little more. Run the waxed/coated neck case through a sizing die, BUT don’t do a complete stroke till you are confident how much of the neck is being sized. Like I said, you only want to size 2/3 of the neck back to .30 caliber as a start. The powdered mica is white and you can see the line on the neck “walk “ toward the shoulder as you size the case and adjust the die. Remove the cocking piece/firing pin assembly from the bolt. Put the partially sized case under the extractor and gently chamber it. You want feel just a slight bit of drag as the bolt handle closes. Keep adjusting the sizing die to size the neck closer to the shoulder, chambering the case as you go to get the right feel as the bolt handle closes.. ([I]If you get too much buildup of sizing wax/mica, wipe excess off so it doesn’t dent the shoulder, but you still want some lube on the case. Run a patch into the chamber every now and then to eliminate the wax/mica buildup.) [/I] You are creating a “[B][I][U]false[/U][/I][/B][I] [B]shoulder[/B][/I]” between the case neck and shoulder that will fill the chamber. When that is done, you can "COW" them or charge the cases with a beginning load and fire . This eliminates the “false shoulder” and gives a fireformed case without the bullet touching the lands. Also, you might want to make note of the water weight your newly formed cases hold . You are creating a sort of a “wild cat” and if you have a computer program such as QuickLOAD, you can be a bit more precise indicating the water weight. [/QUOTE]
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