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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Epoxy in recoil lug
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<blockquote data-quote="284ackley" data-source="post: 2391473" data-attributes="member: 120589"><p>There's only one right way. First, do NOT use Gorilla glue. Over time it breaks down into a brittle honeycomb. It's worthless for anything permanent much less an action job.</p><p>You have to do it with lug attached to the barreled action. It's actually simple and removable done with the right materials. Go to Brownell's and get proper bedding compound….it's an epoxy similar to JB Weld. And get Bedding Release agent.</p><p>You open up the lug area with a dremel or other tool. About a 3/32" clearance minimum on all four sides or compound isn't strong enough. 1/16" is not enough. Need to open up. I even open up the back side of the lug area 3/16" and then vertically along each side, cut a 90deg channel, like an overall "L" or U shape to give further purchase and bond/effectiveness of the recoil lug to stock performance. Then apply release agent along bottom of action, lug and front 2" of barrel. Let it dry completely. Then apply the bedding compound only in the lug area if that's what you want. But a FAR more accurate rifle will be had if you bed entire action and front 2" of barrel. Either way, Then run action screws into the stock and gently snug down the entire action so that it sits properly in your stock as designed; but do not cinch it up. That'll come later after it's all hardened. Let it sit overnight or 24hrs. Remove action screws a 1/4" and take a rubber mallet and begin tapping on screws. The action, lug and barrel will pop free. Clean up and you've got a properly bedded action that's permanent and removable and super enhancing for accuracy. Use modeling clay when you put the epoxy in the lug and action area to build a dam to stop the flow of epoxy in areas you don't want. The clay will simply compress and fill in voids when you mount the action. Don't use excessive epoxy or clay. Some epoxy may come up the sides and out the rifle stock/barrel gap. Do not wipe. Let it harden. You've put release agent everywhere and it's easy to trim with a knife or dremel. This is what you want to do. You CANNOT get a precisely positioned recoil lug bedded, permanently or otherwise without it being attached to the barreled action. You'll be very disappointed and have to destroy the stock to try again. It'll never work that way.</p><p>To be safe on your first bedding attempt, I'd use 2coats of release agent. But keep it thin. Thick won't release any better, but it will create an inprecise gun to stock fit. Tolerances for a proper fit are that tight. Zero/zero. Feel free to DM with questions. I only took this amount of time to write because you're headed for disaster with alot of really bad advice.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="284ackley, post: 2391473, member: 120589"] There’s only one right way. First, do NOT use Gorilla glue. Over time it breaks down into a brittle honeycomb. It’s worthless for anything permanent much less an action job. You have to do it with lug attached to the barreled action. It’s actually simple and removable done with the right materials. Go to Brownell’s and get proper bedding compound….it’s an epoxy similar to JB Weld. And get Bedding Release agent. You open up the lug area with a dremel or other tool. About a 3/32” clearance minimum on all four sides or compound isn’t strong enough. 1/16” is not enough. Need to open up. I even open up the back side of the lug area 3/16” and then vertically along each side, cut a 90deg channel, like an overall “L” or U shape to give further purchase and bond/effectiveness of the recoil lug to stock performance. Then apply release agent along bottom of action, lug and front 2” of barrel. Let it dry completely. Then apply the bedding compound only in the lug area if that’s what you want. But a FAR more accurate rifle will be had if you bed entire action and front 2” of barrel. Either way, Then run action screws into the stock and gently snug down the entire action so that it sits properly in your stock as designed; but do not cinch it up. That’ll come later after it’s all hardened. Let it sit overnight or 24hrs. Remove action screws a 1/4” and take a rubber mallet and begin tapping on screws. The action, lug and barrel will pop free. Clean up and you’ve got a properly bedded action that’s permanent and removable and super enhancing for accuracy. Use modeling clay when you put the epoxy in the lug and action area to build a dam to stop the flow of epoxy in areas you don’t want. The clay will simply compress and fill in voids when you mount the action. Don’t use excessive epoxy or clay. Some epoxy may come up the sides and out the rifle stock/barrel gap. Do not wipe. Let it harden. You've put release agent everywhere and it’s easy to trim with a knife or dremel. This is what you want to do. You CANNOT get a precisely positioned recoil lug bedded, permanently or otherwise without it being attached to the barreled action. You’ll be very disappointed and have to destroy the stock to try again. It’ll never work that way. To be safe on your first bedding attempt, I’d use 2coats of release agent. But keep it thin. Thick won’t release any better, but it will create an inprecise gun to stock fit. Tolerances for a proper fit are that tight. Zero/zero. Feel free to DM with questions. I only took this amount of time to write because you’re headed for disaster with alot of really bad advice. [/QUOTE]
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Epoxy in recoil lug
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