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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Donuts to go UPDATE
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<blockquote data-quote="Idgunner" data-source="post: 3030386" data-attributes="member: 84194"><p>I erroneously decided that the hard spot in the bullet seating process was a donut at the neck/shoulder junction because it would start fairly smooth after the initial push to open the neck to accept the bullet, then it hit a hard spot that required a hard push to get past. The bullets that I use in these cases are Hornady 75g ELDMs. The base of those including the bearing surface of the bullet, sits well below the neck junction when fully seated. So I assumed the flat bearing surface was contacting the constricted neck diameter due to a donut. Afterwards, when I stopped the seating process on one case when that hard spot showed up I removed the shell with the bullet partially seated and made a sharpie mark on the bullet at the neck mouth. Then after I pulled the bullet and held it next to the case it was easy to see that even the tapered base had not reached the neck junction. It was at that point that I had to look at the case mouth.</p><p></p><p>These cases had been fired and annealed without tumbling, they were then trimmed and chamfered and deburred which left a slight rough edge. It could have also been hardened carbon, not sure about that but someone will chime in, that the bullet was trying to slide through. I also had removed the expander button from my decaping rod on my FL neck sizing die because I was following internet 'wisdom'. So I've done two things that make all of the bullet seating slide in like butter.</p><p></p><p>One is I reinstalled the expander button to open the necks slightly with the sizing process. Two is I use a toolhead that a good friend gave me for my Lyman brass prep machine. That is a 45cal pistol brass case that has been drilled out to allow an 8x32 screw to pass through. He held that screw in place with two nuts, one inside and one outside the case. Then he stuffed the case with steel wool, the screw sticks out above the case mouth to act as a pilot for the case neck. That tool fits nicely into one of the positions on the Lyman tool. Now after I trim, chamfer and debur the mouth I jam it down into the steel wool in that rotating cup and it polishes the case mouth nice and smooth. Bullets seat like butter.</p><p></p><p>My case necks are within 0.001 concentricity and bullet seating is nice and smooth. There's still enough neck tension that I don't have to worry about loose bullets getting pushed back into the case mouth and my SD and ES are holding nicely. MV has not been adversely affected. Now I've ordered carbide sizing buttons for my Redding Type S dies and will continue to use them. I've also vowed to tumble my brass after annealing and before reloading with every firing. I had gotten lazy and did not always tumble after annealing this past year. In order to detect a possible donut I've purchased a ball micrometer to help measure the case thickness right down past the neck/shoulder junction if I detect a rough spot in seating pressure then I can use the reamer that I purchased to eliminate that problem.</p><p></p><p>I hope this answers your question.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Idgunner, post: 3030386, member: 84194"] I erroneously decided that the hard spot in the bullet seating process was a donut at the neck/shoulder junction because it would start fairly smooth after the initial push to open the neck to accept the bullet, then it hit a hard spot that required a hard push to get past. The bullets that I use in these cases are Hornady 75g ELDMs. The base of those including the bearing surface of the bullet, sits well below the neck junction when fully seated. So I assumed the flat bearing surface was contacting the constricted neck diameter due to a donut. Afterwards, when I stopped the seating process on one case when that hard spot showed up I removed the shell with the bullet partially seated and made a sharpie mark on the bullet at the neck mouth. Then after I pulled the bullet and held it next to the case it was easy to see that even the tapered base had not reached the neck junction. It was at that point that I had to look at the case mouth. These cases had been fired and annealed without tumbling, they were then trimmed and chamfered and deburred which left a slight rough edge. It could have also been hardened carbon, not sure about that but someone will chime in, that the bullet was trying to slide through. I also had removed the expander button from my decaping rod on my FL neck sizing die because I was following internet 'wisdom'. So I've done two things that make all of the bullet seating slide in like butter. One is I reinstalled the expander button to open the necks slightly with the sizing process. Two is I use a toolhead that a good friend gave me for my Lyman brass prep machine. That is a 45cal pistol brass case that has been drilled out to allow an 8x32 screw to pass through. He held that screw in place with two nuts, one inside and one outside the case. Then he stuffed the case with steel wool, the screw sticks out above the case mouth to act as a pilot for the case neck. That tool fits nicely into one of the positions on the Lyman tool. Now after I trim, chamfer and debur the mouth I jam it down into the steel wool in that rotating cup and it polishes the case mouth nice and smooth. Bullets seat like butter. My case necks are within 0.001 concentricity and bullet seating is nice and smooth. There's still enough neck tension that I don't have to worry about loose bullets getting pushed back into the case mouth and my SD and ES are holding nicely. MV has not been adversely affected. Now I've ordered carbide sizing buttons for my Redding Type S dies and will continue to use them. I've also vowed to tumble my brass after annealing and before reloading with every firing. I had gotten lazy and did not always tumble after annealing this past year. In order to detect a possible donut I've purchased a ball micrometer to help measure the case thickness right down past the neck/shoulder junction if I detect a rough spot in seating pressure then I can use the reamer that I purchased to eliminate that problem. I hope this answers your question. [/QUOTE]
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