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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Diagnosing Issue still- advice please
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<blockquote data-quote="BrentM" data-source="post: 779319" data-attributes="member: 61747"><p>Savage model 116, accustock. This model has two screws instead of the wedge style. I torqued front and rear to 40" lbs like the manual says. I did remove the base and reinstall with loctite etc, mounts rechecked. </p><p> </p><p>I will remove the action and bbl from the stock and look it over again. This rifle has been shooting lights out until lately. Now has 250 rounds through it. Barrel cleans up well and I confirm zero copper with CL or CR 10, whatever it is, with a 10-15 min soak time and patch it. If it is not colorless I keep cleaning until it is. I checked for a carbon ring as well, bore is smooth and consistent. No black comes out after a good initial scrub with a nylon brush. After that it is just blue until that is gone.</p><p> </p><p>Anyway, thanks for all the replies. I am just trying to ensure I have not missed something simple and I am considering all input. Several weeks back my scope was bumped and was off 6" to the right at 100. I re-zeroed but NF has me convinced it is not the scope. I was convinced as well with the 56.5 4 shot group at 100. Thought I hit a nice node and took it to 200. I thought about form and all that but if you can shoot .5 at 100 you can usually shoot that at 200. I can not imagine myself shooting a 4.5" spread at 200 with any rifle that can shoot .5 or less at 100. </p><p> </p><p>I have a aluminum weaver picatinny 1 piece base. It seems to be built fine enough, it is my first base of this sort. It does not have a recoil lug, no moa, and does not show signs of wear from the mounts etc. Mounts are Leupold PRW steel. I DID NOT check the base last night to see if the screws were loose.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="BrentM, post: 779319, member: 61747"] Savage model 116, accustock. This model has two screws instead of the wedge style. I torqued front and rear to 40" lbs like the manual says. I did remove the base and reinstall with loctite etc, mounts rechecked. I will remove the action and bbl from the stock and look it over again. This rifle has been shooting lights out until lately. Now has 250 rounds through it. Barrel cleans up well and I confirm zero copper with CL or CR 10, whatever it is, with a 10-15 min soak time and patch it. If it is not colorless I keep cleaning until it is. I checked for a carbon ring as well, bore is smooth and consistent. No black comes out after a good initial scrub with a nylon brush. After that it is just blue until that is gone. Anyway, thanks for all the replies. I am just trying to ensure I have not missed something simple and I am considering all input. Several weeks back my scope was bumped and was off 6" to the right at 100. I re-zeroed but NF has me convinced it is not the scope. I was convinced as well with the 56.5 4 shot group at 100. Thought I hit a nice node and took it to 200. I thought about form and all that but if you can shoot .5 at 100 you can usually shoot that at 200. I can not imagine myself shooting a 4.5" spread at 200 with any rifle that can shoot .5 or less at 100. I have a aluminum weaver picatinny 1 piece base. It seems to be built fine enough, it is my first base of this sort. It does not have a recoil lug, no moa, and does not show signs of wear from the mounts etc. Mounts are Leupold PRW steel. I DID NOT check the base last night to see if the screws were loose. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
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Diagnosing Issue still- advice please
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