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Gunsmithing
cva optima rifle trigger assembly
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<blockquote data-quote="calinb" data-source="post: 547124" data-attributes="member: 31242"><p>This thread is even older now, but I figure I have something to add for anyone searching for info on a Stalker trigger job. After all, that's how I found this thread a couple of months ago before I started to tinker with my 270 Win Stalker.</p><p></p><p>First, I'll address the heavy trigger, which this thread is about. My trigger must've been around 6 or 7 lbs. and I couldn't deal with it. When I managed to call my shot good, the accuracy seemed quite good from prone with a sling (about 1" groups @ 100 yards) but I couldn't drop the hammer when I wanted to with the heavy "wait for it....wait for it" pull. I removed the cocking extension and the trigger guard/trigger and hammer pins. I didn't have to remove the action latch pin or plastic finger protector to drop the parts out the bottom. I polished the trigger sear and hammer notch surfaces and put it back together, but it only dropped the pull a pound or so, based on my non-weights and measures approved finger calibration. </p><p></p><p>I pulled the hammer and trigger out again and went to work on the sear surfaces with my mill. The surfaces were not even close to parallel so I matched them up and also angled the surfaces about 20 degrees from the original hammer notch sear angle and stoned and polished them afterwards. It turns out that I would've probably been better off to just get the trigger sear surface parallel with the hammer notch surface, because the trigger is a bit lighter than I'd prefer (about 1.5 lbs.) It still has no creep and releases crisply but I would've preferred somewhere around 2-3 lbs. of pull. At least it's a break action single shot that only gets cocked when the crosshairs are on the target so I don't feel it is unsafe for hunting, though it's probably best to remove a cold weather glove from the trigger hand. Someday I'll buy a trigger pull gage and see what the pull really is.</p><p></p><p>My plastic molded sling "stud" broke so I sanded it off with a belt sander and put a Mike's swivel stud in its place. I also modified two Bergara Optima Elite barrels to fit the action--one in .30-06 and one 12 ga. I only had to mill the "tang" area of the barrel lug that's forward of the pin a bit narrower to match my original OEM 270 Win Stalker barrel. Looks like that's exactly what CVA does with their old Bergara Elite barrels to fit them up to the bargain Stalker. The barrels locked up tight and headspaced just fine.</p><p></p><p>Yup--I've voided my warranty. Yup--you could kill yourself or others by attempting to duplicate any of what I've done and I can't take any responsibility for that, but I will provide more details and answer questions, if anyone is interested.</p><p></p><p>-Cal</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="calinb, post: 547124, member: 31242"] This thread is even older now, but I figure I have something to add for anyone searching for info on a Stalker trigger job. After all, that's how I found this thread a couple of months ago before I started to tinker with my 270 Win Stalker. First, I'll address the heavy trigger, which this thread is about. My trigger must've been around 6 or 7 lbs. and I couldn't deal with it. When I managed to call my shot good, the accuracy seemed quite good from prone with a sling (about 1" groups @ 100 yards) but I couldn't drop the hammer when I wanted to with the heavy "wait for it....wait for it" pull. I removed the cocking extension and the trigger guard/trigger and hammer pins. I didn't have to remove the action latch pin or plastic finger protector to drop the parts out the bottom. I polished the trigger sear and hammer notch surfaces and put it back together, but it only dropped the pull a pound or so, based on my non-weights and measures approved finger calibration. I pulled the hammer and trigger out again and went to work on the sear surfaces with my mill. The surfaces were not even close to parallel so I matched them up and also angled the surfaces about 20 degrees from the original hammer notch sear angle and stoned and polished them afterwards. It turns out that I would've probably been better off to just get the trigger sear surface parallel with the hammer notch surface, because the trigger is a bit lighter than I'd prefer (about 1.5 lbs.) It still has no creep and releases crisply but I would've preferred somewhere around 2-3 lbs. of pull. At least it's a break action single shot that only gets cocked when the crosshairs are on the target so I don't feel it is unsafe for hunting, though it's probably best to remove a cold weather glove from the trigger hand. Someday I'll buy a trigger pull gage and see what the pull really is. My plastic molded sling "stud" broke so I sanded it off with a belt sander and put a Mike's swivel stud in its place. I also modified two Bergara Optima Elite barrels to fit the action--one in .30-06 and one 12 ga. I only had to mill the "tang" area of the barrel lug that's forward of the pin a bit narrower to match my original OEM 270 Win Stalker barrel. Looks like that's exactly what CVA does with their old Bergara Elite barrels to fit them up to the bargain Stalker. The barrels locked up tight and headspaced just fine. Yup--I've voided my warranty. Yup--you could kill yourself or others by attempting to duplicate any of what I've done and I can't take any responsibility for that, but I will provide more details and answer questions, if anyone is interested. -Cal [/QUOTE]
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cva optima rifle trigger assembly
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