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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Cutting threads
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<blockquote data-quote="jarnold37" data-source="post: 2245805" data-attributes="member: 29241"><p>Several years ago, I learned from a well known gunsmith that using a full profile insert would always produce the exact thread depth with no guessing. With a full profile threading insert the insert is for only one thread pitch. It takes a specific insert for a specific thread. When cutting threads for a Remington, nominal diameter is 1.062. With full profile, the tenon is cut to 1.070. Then when threading with a 16tpi insert, make light passes until the insert starts to reduce the diameter as well as cutting the thread. The insert then is cutting the exact depth that is specified for 16tpi thread. Mic the passes until diameter is close to 1.062 and try action on tenon. If another pass is needed still correct until action will thread on correctly.I do cut at a faster rpm with carbide but no problem. I saw a barrel thread from a gunsmith and the threads were very sharp and very loose. Another barrel ordered (ordered 3 barrels) by a friend from a smith several hundred miles away, would not thread on being to tight. He drove hours and the smith smeared valve grinding compound on threads and worked back and forth till threaded on. Full profile insert eliminates that problem. Some thread tendons need to be slightly smaller diameter than nominal and thread becomes wrong depth by cutting another pass or two when problem is tenon cut to big before threading. With full profile there is only one operation to monitor as each pass keeps the correct thread shape and size even if smaller diameter is needed. Grinding my own HSS sometimes went good and cut good thread but sometime not so good. Something not mentioned very much but for barrel tenon it is important for me to cut a correct thread which is more important than surface finish.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="jarnold37, post: 2245805, member: 29241"] Several years ago, I learned from a well known gunsmith that using a full profile insert would always produce the exact thread depth with no guessing. With a full profile threading insert the insert is for only one thread pitch. It takes a specific insert for a specific thread. When cutting threads for a Remington, nominal diameter is 1.062. With full profile, the tenon is cut to 1.070. Then when threading with a 16tpi insert, make light passes until the insert starts to reduce the diameter as well as cutting the thread. The insert then is cutting the exact depth that is specified for 16tpi thread. Mic the passes until diameter is close to 1.062 and try action on tenon. If another pass is needed still correct until action will thread on correctly.I do cut at a faster rpm with carbide but no problem. I saw a barrel thread from a gunsmith and the threads were very sharp and very loose. Another barrel ordered (ordered 3 barrels) by a friend from a smith several hundred miles away, would not thread on being to tight. He drove hours and the smith smeared valve grinding compound on threads and worked back and forth till threaded on. Full profile insert eliminates that problem. Some thread tendons need to be slightly smaller diameter than nominal and thread becomes wrong depth by cutting another pass or two when problem is tenon cut to big before threading. With full profile there is only one operation to monitor as each pass keeps the correct thread shape and size even if smaller diameter is needed. Grinding my own HSS sometimes went good and cut good thread but sometime not so good. Something not mentioned very much but for barrel tenon it is important for me to cut a correct thread which is more important than surface finish. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
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Cutting threads
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