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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Cutting dovetails, how hard can it be...
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<blockquote data-quote="Trickymissfit" data-source="post: 633014" data-attributes="member: 25383"><p>I would do two very small changes in your design. First use a Morten nut instead of a regular nut, and then get the one with the male radius onthe bottom. Then secondly use the corresponding washer with the same female radius. I went with these years ago and found that the worked a little better in allowing the dovetails to align themselves easier (I had one every once in awhile freeze up on the block [Alorus]). You already have the block done, and all you need is the hard nut and washer. Never tried to make the center post, and I congratulate you on your work! Your building the small one, we used the next size bigger most of the time, except on the Hardinghs and my Monarch EE. If you can lay your hands on the threading tool holder they sell, buy it! It looks like they either used Rex 95 or Vasco Supreme for the cutting device, and it really cuts nice threads. (highspeed steel always cuts a better thread than carbide anyway). One last thing about those blocks. The stud that goes thru the block, and holds everything in place gets beat up pretty bad if in constant use. (the Morten Nut really helps it last longer). Make the stud out of pretreat 4150 with a removable tee nut on the bottom ( some are real oddballs). Then have the stud nitrided. But leave the tee nut soft as you can (I always used 8620), as you want that part to go first. Also easier on the cast iron slot in the compound on the lathe. I used to make eight or ten studs at a time, and had several nuts for each compound. </p><p>gary</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Trickymissfit, post: 633014, member: 25383"] I would do two very small changes in your design. First use a Morten nut instead of a regular nut, and then get the one with the male radius onthe bottom. Then secondly use the corresponding washer with the same female radius. I went with these years ago and found that the worked a little better in allowing the dovetails to align themselves easier (I had one every once in awhile freeze up on the block [Alorus]). You already have the block done, and all you need is the hard nut and washer. Never tried to make the center post, and I congratulate you on your work! Your building the small one, we used the next size bigger most of the time, except on the Hardinghs and my Monarch EE. If you can lay your hands on the threading tool holder they sell, buy it! It looks like they either used Rex 95 or Vasco Supreme for the cutting device, and it really cuts nice threads. (highspeed steel always cuts a better thread than carbide anyway). One last thing about those blocks. The stud that goes thru the block, and holds everything in place gets beat up pretty bad if in constant use. (the Morten Nut really helps it last longer). Make the stud out of pretreat 4150 with a removable tee nut on the bottom ( some are real oddballs). Then have the stud nitrided. But leave the tee nut soft as you can (I always used 8620), as you want that part to go first. Also easier on the cast iron slot in the compound on the lathe. I used to make eight or ten studs at a time, and had several nuts for each compound. gary [/QUOTE]
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Cutting dovetails, how hard can it be...
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