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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Critique my Threading and Chambering - Video
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<blockquote data-quote="tobnpr" data-source="post: 1871123" data-attributes="member: 68758"><p>Maybe my eyes deceived... looked like you cut the bolt nose counterbore (with the form tool) rigidly held in your drill chuck- and didn't use the floating holder/reamer that I see in the drill chuck when you start the chamber? If so, you could end up with some misalignment of the counterbore. I wouldn't treat the counterbore reamer any differently than the chamber reamer.</p><p></p><p>I use a micrometer reamer stop, but absent that- consider using your carriage with your micrometer carriage stop as a "hard stop" for your carriage/tailstock. I used this method briefly, before I went to using the micrometer stop.</p><p></p><p>Looks like you're backing out the whole shebang, then just running the reamer back in until you feel contact each time, then calling that "zero" again. As you've no doubt found out- trying to get a thou this way can be extremely hit and miss depending on the pressure needed for the reamer to begin cutting.</p><p></p><p>When you get close, push the tailstock hard against the carriage (some guys fab up tooling of some sort to actually attach the tailstock firmly to the carriage). Set your Z axis zero. Hands off the tailstock handwheel... if you have a loose one, make sure the screw won't move in or out by itself.</p><p></p><p>Advance the reamer by using the handwheel on your carriage, dialing the micrometer carriage stop to exactly what you want. By having the tailstock locked to the carriage- or pushing it by hand (loosen the tailstock bed clamp just enough to slide it, like power tapping) and moving as one, when you back out and come back you'll be exactly where you were- plus whatever adjustments you dial on your carriage stop.</p><p></p><p>You didn't go much into detail on your method for dialing in, so can't comment on that. I'm assuming you traversed at least several inches of the gauge pin to be sure it was running true. Not saying what I do is any better, but I concentrate more on the throat area (with a Grizzly rod), moving the bushing directly to where the throat is to within a tenth- then the very back of the chamber as close to that as I can get with the outboard spider.</p><p></p><p>Just some food for thought...</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="tobnpr, post: 1871123, member: 68758"] Maybe my eyes deceived... looked like you cut the bolt nose counterbore (with the form tool) rigidly held in your drill chuck- and didn't use the floating holder/reamer that I see in the drill chuck when you start the chamber? If so, you could end up with some misalignment of the counterbore. I wouldn't treat the counterbore reamer any differently than the chamber reamer. I use a micrometer reamer stop, but absent that- consider using your carriage with your micrometer carriage stop as a "hard stop" for your carriage/tailstock. I used this method briefly, before I went to using the micrometer stop. Looks like you're backing out the whole shebang, then just running the reamer back in until you feel contact each time, then calling that "zero" again. As you've no doubt found out- trying to get a thou this way can be extremely hit and miss depending on the pressure needed for the reamer to begin cutting. When you get close, push the tailstock hard against the carriage (some guys fab up tooling of some sort to actually attach the tailstock firmly to the carriage). Set your Z axis zero. Hands off the tailstock handwheel... if you have a loose one, make sure the screw won't move in or out by itself. Advance the reamer by using the handwheel on your carriage, dialing the micrometer carriage stop to exactly what you want. By having the tailstock locked to the carriage- or pushing it by hand (loosen the tailstock bed clamp just enough to slide it, like power tapping) and moving as one, when you back out and come back you'll be exactly where you were- plus whatever adjustments you dial on your carriage stop. You didn't go much into detail on your method for dialing in, so can't comment on that. I'm assuming you traversed at least several inches of the gauge pin to be sure it was running true. Not saying what I do is any better, but I concentrate more on the throat area (with a Grizzly rod), moving the bushing directly to where the throat is to within a tenth- then the very back of the chamber as close to that as I can get with the outboard spider. Just some food for thought... [/QUOTE]
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Critique my Threading and Chambering - Video
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