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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Coolant/Oil for Chamber flush
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<blockquote data-quote="Trickymissfit" data-source="post: 593772" data-attributes="member: 25383"><p>the concept of super precision reaming is a closely guarded piece of information right from the start. Probably the best is "Trim CE", but where you but it now I don't know (also the best drilling and tapping fluid out there). I've seen extreme reaming done with everything from the old black cutting oils to plain old mineral seal. Mineral seal will give you the best finish, but has other issues to deal with (it's flamable for one). Does not like a tremendous amount of tool pressure is is trickey to setup. Once you get there it's a winner. Raw Trim (comes in a concentrate to be mixed with strait water) painted on the reamer will do better than 95% of the stuff out there without a fancey coolant system. One bad thing about Trim is that it's hard on the paint job and will eat the seals out of a ball screw, so you gotta remember that issue. Painted on the reamer with a brush will not cause that heart break. Trim CE will handle much higher tool pressure loads than mineral seal if that is an issue. But the micro finish is better with mineral seal as it comes out looking like it was honed. Trim CE will induce some stress in the parent metal if your removing a lot of stock (try to keep the final ream to about .006"). In the heavy machining industry Trim and mineral seal are the goto in 70% of the high precision ream jobs. There are a couple other close copies of that coolant out there, and they work fairly well, but becarefull as at least one is very caustic. Also you can't just dump any of these coolants down the sewer! They all must be handled by a recyceler. </p><p>gary</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Trickymissfit, post: 593772, member: 25383"] the concept of super precision reaming is a closely guarded piece of information right from the start. Probably the best is "Trim CE", but where you but it now I don't know (also the best drilling and tapping fluid out there). I've seen extreme reaming done with everything from the old black cutting oils to plain old mineral seal. Mineral seal will give you the best finish, but has other issues to deal with (it's flamable for one). Does not like a tremendous amount of tool pressure is is trickey to setup. Once you get there it's a winner. Raw Trim (comes in a concentrate to be mixed with strait water) painted on the reamer will do better than 95% of the stuff out there without a fancey coolant system. One bad thing about Trim is that it's hard on the paint job and will eat the seals out of a ball screw, so you gotta remember that issue. Painted on the reamer with a brush will not cause that heart break. Trim CE will handle much higher tool pressure loads than mineral seal if that is an issue. But the micro finish is better with mineral seal as it comes out looking like it was honed. Trim CE will induce some stress in the parent metal if your removing a lot of stock (try to keep the final ream to about .006"). In the heavy machining industry Trim and mineral seal are the goto in 70% of the high precision ream jobs. There are a couple other close copies of that coolant out there, and they work fairly well, but becarefull as at least one is very caustic. Also you can't just dump any of these coolants down the sewer! They all must be handled by a recyceler. gary [/QUOTE]
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Coolant/Oil for Chamber flush
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