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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Long Range Scopes and Other Optics
conetrol base adjustment in alignment with bore
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<blockquote data-quote="Bullet bumper" data-source="post: 763689" data-attributes="member: 17844"><p>This how I do it . It may not be how the gunsmiths do it but it works for me .</p><p>Buy a shot saver the type that has a mandrel that goes into the bore.</p><p>I use a Tasco shot saver. </p><p>First centre the scopes reticule . Adjust the windage all the way to one side ( don't force it at the end when it starts to tighten stop ) . Then adjust it all the way back counting the clicks. Then click halfway back .</p><p>Mount the gun in a vise so it is plumb .</p><p> </p><p>Set up the scope with base side screws still loose but they hold the scope from slipping easily. </p><p>Adjust the scope until you can see the shot saver grid pattern .</p><p>Plumb the scope reticule off the action and then parallel the shot saver grid off the scope reticule . They don't have to be in centre yet just vertically parallel . </p><p>Tighten up the front mount first a bit at a time left and right watching the crosshair on the grid to get it centred in the vertical plain . Get the screws almost tight but not fully tight because you still want some give for the rear mount to centre and move the tube . Then do the same for the rear mount but watching that you don't move the cross hair off it's centred position . When the rear mount is almost tight test any variable power change . A good scope should change power and the reticule should not move from the same position .</p><p>If that checks out then a bit at a time tighten each side to fully tighten while still watching the reticule stays in centre .</p><p>Only left to right is required the vertical centre . </p><p>Of course eye relief and reticule plumb has to be addressed during the setup. This does not address elevation Zero .</p><p>I can get even cheap variable scopes tracking well with this system .</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Bullet bumper, post: 763689, member: 17844"] This how I do it . It may not be how the gunsmiths do it but it works for me . Buy a shot saver the type that has a mandrel that goes into the bore. I use a Tasco shot saver. First centre the scopes reticule . Adjust the windage all the way to one side ( don't force it at the end when it starts to tighten stop ) . Then adjust it all the way back counting the clicks. Then click halfway back . Mount the gun in a vise so it is plumb . Set up the scope with base side screws still loose but they hold the scope from slipping easily. Adjust the scope until you can see the shot saver grid pattern . Plumb the scope reticule off the action and then parallel the shot saver grid off the scope reticule . They don't have to be in centre yet just vertically parallel . Tighten up the front mount first a bit at a time left and right watching the crosshair on the grid to get it centred in the vertical plain . Get the screws almost tight but not fully tight because you still want some give for the rear mount to centre and move the tube . Then do the same for the rear mount but watching that you don't move the cross hair off it's centred position . When the rear mount is almost tight test any variable power change . A good scope should change power and the reticule should not move from the same position . If that checks out then a bit at a time tighten each side to fully tighten while still watching the reticule stays in centre . Only left to right is required the vertical centre . Of course eye relief and reticule plumb has to be addressed during the setup. This does not address elevation Zero . I can get even cheap variable scopes tracking well with this system . [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Long Range Scopes and Other Optics
conetrol base adjustment in alignment with bore
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