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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Concentricity/Neck Turning/Culling Cases:
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<blockquote data-quote="roadking0678" data-source="post: 1644806" data-attributes="member: 106301"><p>1. as far as culling cases... i only cull after weighing cases and sorting them into groups of like weights.. within a 4 grains of each other. I dont worry about concentricity at this point.</p><p></p><p>2. This is a personal preference. I actually measure all of my cases and find the thinnest point on the neck of all of them..i then subtract 1 thousandth and this is where i set my case turner and turn all of the necks to that measurement.</p><p></p><p>3. all cases are banana's. I will say the better brass.. Lapua, Federal Gold etc.. are more concentric and require less prep. Factory and cheaper brass AKA Remington, Winchester are fine.. they just require more prep and have a shorter case life.</p><p></p><p>4. Answered in #2, BUT the second part of the question my answer is. I keep all of my case necks within 2 thou of each other on subsequent reloading's. If they start getting to 3 and 4 depending on how much brass is left I may do a second turning. This usually only works on really good brass like Lapua. They tend to have more meat on the necks.</p><p></p><p>Final Notes: Reloading is FUN and should stay fun. There are some "General" rules about safety that must be followed but after that its really all personal preference and what works for YOU and your rifle. For me it's relaxing and a fun challenge to see how consistent I can make my ammo. Some people just like the money savings. It really doesn't matter as long as you are having fun and being safe.</p><p></p><p>I personally think it's good to start out on cheap brass so you can learn how to dial in an imperfect case to perfection without tearing up brass you spent a lot of money on. Plus you know your ammo inside and out.</p><p></p><p>All of this only works though if you have your chamber dimensions. This is the critical measurement so you know YOUR rifles OAL, neck size, and distance to the lands. Once you have all these measurements you can really dial in your brass.</p><p></p><p>Or... if you just want to make good consistent ammo for hunting/target practice sticking to SAAMI specs and trimming/turning you cases will be a great hobby and save you some money.</p><p></p><p>Anyway.. these are just my opinions and experiences. Im stoked you're wanting to reload to the best standard. Im passing this stuff on to my kids and even my wife is now interested. Got to keep this part of shooting alive!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="roadking0678, post: 1644806, member: 106301"] 1. as far as culling cases... i only cull after weighing cases and sorting them into groups of like weights.. within a 4 grains of each other. I dont worry about concentricity at this point. 2. This is a personal preference. I actually measure all of my cases and find the thinnest point on the neck of all of them..i then subtract 1 thousandth and this is where i set my case turner and turn all of the necks to that measurement. 3. all cases are banana's. I will say the better brass.. Lapua, Federal Gold etc.. are more concentric and require less prep. Factory and cheaper brass AKA Remington, Winchester are fine.. they just require more prep and have a shorter case life. 4. Answered in #2, BUT the second part of the question my answer is. I keep all of my case necks within 2 thou of each other on subsequent reloading's. If they start getting to 3 and 4 depending on how much brass is left I may do a second turning. This usually only works on really good brass like Lapua. They tend to have more meat on the necks. Final Notes: Reloading is FUN and should stay fun. There are some "General" rules about safety that must be followed but after that its really all personal preference and what works for YOU and your rifle. For me it's relaxing and a fun challenge to see how consistent I can make my ammo. Some people just like the money savings. It really doesn't matter as long as you are having fun and being safe. I personally think it's good to start out on cheap brass so you can learn how to dial in an imperfect case to perfection without tearing up brass you spent a lot of money on. Plus you know your ammo inside and out. All of this only works though if you have your chamber dimensions. This is the critical measurement so you know YOUR rifles OAL, neck size, and distance to the lands. Once you have all these measurements you can really dial in your brass. Or... if you just want to make good consistent ammo for hunting/target practice sticking to SAAMI specs and trimming/turning you cases will be a great hobby and save you some money. Anyway.. these are just my opinions and experiences. Im stoked you're wanting to reload to the best standard. Im passing this stuff on to my kids and even my wife is now interested. Got to keep this part of shooting alive! [/QUOTE]
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