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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Cleaning
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<blockquote data-quote="Steve Shelp" data-source="post: 23576" data-attributes="member: 22"><p>BH,</p><p> Have you tried the newer Bore-Tech aluminum core nylon brushes? I've got some softer brislte nylon brushes I got from Sinclair that work great in that I can reverse them in the bore without harm and really work in the copper solvent. But they use brass for the core and threading area and stil leave some copper wash in the bore.</p><p> But those Bore-Tech brushes use a much much stiffer nylon bristle and use aluminum for the brush core so that you don't get any copper "wash" from your brush.</p><p> I use these Bore-Tech brushes for the first cleaning while the bore is still hot and then let the bore soak for 10 minutes. After the majority of the copper is gone and the patches come out with blue streaks in them, then I use those other softer brushes to really work the solvent in and not harm the bore. I don't use the bronze brushes anymore myself.</p><p></p><p>IanM,</p><p> Again I'll to tell everyone to read and reread your posts above. Lubing the lugs and caming area on the bolt can't be stressed enough especially with stainless steel actions. I saw a brand new BAT 8 1/2" action gall a lug this summer within the first 100 rounds thorugh it. It was bad enough that it took a good amount of physical force to close the bolt and had to be recut.</p><p> The best way to "work in" lubed bolt lugs in the action is to insert the bolt into the action raceway, (make sure rifle is unloaded... sorry had to say it) pull the trigger so the bolt doesn't cock and allow the bolt to go as far forward as possible then work the bolt lugs up/down 2 or 3 times so the grease gets on the lug abutments in the action and isn't scrapped off if the bolt engages the sear and is held back against the abutments.</p><p></p><p>also when I JB my bore I work the throat area quite heavy with back & forth motion then and work down the bore a little bit then simply push the patch w/JB on it out the crown in one quick motion. It takes a little messing around with to get the right size patch to fit your bore size so that JB work the best. But then you don't want a lot of pressure from a tight fit, because now your creating a lap and have gone past cleaning the bore. A bore scope is a great asset in this area. If you don't have one, go to your gunsmiths some evening and use the before and after method.</p><p></p><p>good information here!</p><p></p><p>Steve</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Steve Shelp, post: 23576, member: 22"] BH, Have you tried the newer Bore-Tech aluminum core nylon brushes? I've got some softer brislte nylon brushes I got from Sinclair that work great in that I can reverse them in the bore without harm and really work in the copper solvent. But they use brass for the core and threading area and stil leave some copper wash in the bore. But those Bore-Tech brushes use a much much stiffer nylon bristle and use aluminum for the brush core so that you don't get any copper "wash" from your brush. I use these Bore-Tech brushes for the first cleaning while the bore is still hot and then let the bore soak for 10 minutes. After the majority of the copper is gone and the patches come out with blue streaks in them, then I use those other softer brushes to really work the solvent in and not harm the bore. I don't use the bronze brushes anymore myself. IanM, Again I'll to tell everyone to read and reread your posts above. Lubing the lugs and caming area on the bolt can't be stressed enough especially with stainless steel actions. I saw a brand new BAT 8 1/2" action gall a lug this summer within the first 100 rounds thorugh it. It was bad enough that it took a good amount of physical force to close the bolt and had to be recut. The best way to "work in" lubed bolt lugs in the action is to insert the bolt into the action raceway, (make sure rifle is unloaded... sorry had to say it) pull the trigger so the bolt doesn't cock and allow the bolt to go as far forward as possible then work the bolt lugs up/down 2 or 3 times so the grease gets on the lug abutments in the action and isn't scrapped off if the bolt engages the sear and is held back against the abutments. also when I JB my bore I work the throat area quite heavy with back & forth motion then and work down the bore a little bit then simply push the patch w/JB on it out the crown in one quick motion. It takes a little messing around with to get the right size patch to fit your bore size so that JB work the best. But then you don't want a lot of pressure from a tight fit, because now your creating a lap and have gone past cleaning the bore. A bore scope is a great asset in this area. If you don't have one, go to your gunsmiths some evening and use the before and after method. good information here! Steve [/QUOTE]
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