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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Cleaning Shell cases.....Tumblers or ultrasonic cleaners ???
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<blockquote data-quote="Mikecr" data-source="post: 448884" data-attributes="member: 1521"><p>I'm sure it does MO, but SS looks like a logistical nightmare to me.</p><p>It's a combination of every bad part of every method..</p><p>And now you have not only wet brass to worry about, but wet bench, wet counters, wet tumbler, a yucky dish sop bottle, lemon shine granules, measuring spoons, moldy sifters, moldy bucket, and moldy media. Haul it all outside to dry, and clean up the inside mess till tomorrow?</p><p>Then your brass is clean enough to check your lipstick and run it into your dies, except, you have to coat every one with sizing lube.. Then I guess repeat all that water sloshing again to get it off?</p><p>The site mentioned water spots, but didn't mention tarnish or any way to protect your brass from oxidation with time. You know cartridge brass tarnishes right? Ever try to stop rust -once it starts? You can't, it's cancer that has to be cut away or converted.</p><p></p><p>The only reason to clean the inside of our brass is to relieve the volume of any carbon flakes that can build up, and potentially fall into a position that affects an ignition here or there. It's a very minor concern easily taken care of with traditional/dry cleaning. We apply a bit of polish to our dry media for a coating to prevent oxidation(from over-cleaning leaving surfaces exposed).</p><p>So unless trophies(and cash prizes) are being handed out for case internal shinyness, we should really keep our focus on function over form.</p><p></p><p>Anyway, after wetting your brass, you should dry it with a tumbler full of dry media, and then re-tumble to coat the brass with a wax based polish applied to dry media. And the sooner this is done, the less likely that oxidation will take hold and counter your chances for a trophy..</p><p>This well closes a circle of tail chasing you fadsters are falling into here.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Mikecr, post: 448884, member: 1521"] I'm sure it does MO, but SS looks like a logistical nightmare to me. It's a combination of every bad part of every method.. And now you have not only wet brass to worry about, but wet bench, wet counters, wet tumbler, a yucky dish sop bottle, lemon shine granules, measuring spoons, moldy sifters, moldy bucket, and moldy media. Haul it all outside to dry, and clean up the inside mess till tomorrow? Then your brass is clean enough to check your lipstick and run it into your dies, except, you have to coat every one with sizing lube.. Then I guess repeat all that water sloshing again to get it off? The site mentioned water spots, but didn't mention tarnish or any way to protect your brass from oxidation with time. You know cartridge brass tarnishes right? Ever try to stop rust -once it starts? You can't, it's cancer that has to be cut away or converted. The only reason to clean the inside of our brass is to relieve the volume of any carbon flakes that can build up, and potentially fall into a position that affects an ignition here or there. It's a very minor concern easily taken care of with traditional/dry cleaning. We apply a bit of polish to our dry media for a coating to prevent oxidation(from over-cleaning leaving surfaces exposed). So unless trophies(and cash prizes) are being handed out for case internal shinyness, we should really keep our focus on function over form. Anyway, after wetting your brass, you should dry it with a tumbler full of dry media, and then re-tumble to coat the brass with a wax based polish applied to dry media. And the sooner this is done, the less likely that oxidation will take hold and counter your chances for a trophy.. This well closes a circle of tail chasing you fadsters are falling into here. [/QUOTE]
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Cleaning Shell cases.....Tumblers or ultrasonic cleaners ???
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