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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Cleaning question
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<blockquote data-quote="johnny k." data-source="post: 32999" data-attributes="member: 2322"><p>Cobber,</p><p> Probably would have made barrel clean up easier if you'da done the "proper" barrel break-in. But, since you're past that now no need to worry. I italicized proper because there could be another whole post on that subject.</p><p> I have noticed that whenever I use a brush on any of my barrels, no matter what stage of clean they're in, the patches always come out black. Just the nature of the beast I guess. I use the brush to start with and jag and patches from there on out.</p><p> I use Barnes CR-10 to remove copper and carbon now. It, like some other solvents, has a high ammonia content and the directions on the bottle should be followed to the letter. I use this until patches stop turning blue/green on me then go to Kroil/Marvel Mystery Oil combo, and dry patch out.</p><p> Sweets and Montana Extreme are two more "odifirous" (read: ammonia) solvents that work on the copper. Never have used JB bore cleaner or paste, but a gunsmith friend swears by them. Uses them after initial cleaning to smooth barrels out. I'm not sure if the abrasiveness of this is too much for a barrel, it doesn't seem to hurt my buddies barrels. I would think that after 400 rds your barrel would have most of the roughness and tooling marks out. Especially with a hot little number like the .270 WSM. I have been considering that round myself.</p><p> As for the Tubbs firelapping kit, I won't say either way. I have no experience with it either. I've never ran across a barrel that was so rough I couldn't get it smooth by other means. It too is probably cause for another post.</p><p> I have a Sendero 7mm RM that the first 10-12" of bore is really rough (1500+ rounds!). Instead of continueing to waste 2-3 days to clean I am planning on an aftermarket barrel for it in the near future. Good luck with your barrel and let us know what you do. Johnny K.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="johnny k., post: 32999, member: 2322"] Cobber, Probably would have made barrel clean up easier if you'da done the "proper" barrel break-in. But, since you're past that now no need to worry. I italicized proper because there could be another whole post on that subject. I have noticed that whenever I use a brush on any of my barrels, no matter what stage of clean they're in, the patches always come out black. Just the nature of the beast I guess. I use the brush to start with and jag and patches from there on out. I use Barnes CR-10 to remove copper and carbon now. It, like some other solvents, has a high ammonia content and the directions on the bottle should be followed to the letter. I use this until patches stop turning blue/green on me then go to Kroil/Marvel Mystery Oil combo, and dry patch out. Sweets and Montana Extreme are two more "odifirous" (read: ammonia) solvents that work on the copper. Never have used JB bore cleaner or paste, but a gunsmith friend swears by them. Uses them after initial cleaning to smooth barrels out. I'm not sure if the abrasiveness of this is too much for a barrel, it doesn't seem to hurt my buddies barrels. I would think that after 400 rds your barrel would have most of the roughness and tooling marks out. Especially with a hot little number like the .270 WSM. I have been considering that round myself. As for the Tubbs firelapping kit, I won't say either way. I have no experience with it either. I've never ran across a barrel that was so rough I couldn't get it smooth by other means. It too is probably cause for another post. I have a Sendero 7mm RM that the first 10-12" of bore is really rough (1500+ rounds!). Instead of continueing to waste 2-3 days to clean I am planning on an aftermarket barrel for it in the near future. Good luck with your barrel and let us know what you do. Johnny K. [/QUOTE]
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