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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Chambering question
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<blockquote data-quote="cgarb" data-source="post: 1801521" data-attributes="member: 55318"><p>I just finished my 1st rebarrel job from a blank. It's a Mauser, in 338-06. I replaced the original barrel with an Adams & Bennett prefit, it didn't shoot well and copper fouled. I bought a Wilson Arms stainless #4 blank and did the threading and chambering on my lathe. I did the work in a steadyrest. My lathe has no spider on the back and the thru bore is small. My question is when I tightened the action to the barrel the go gage the bolt will fall on it but with very light resistance. You don't have to force it closed or anything, but you can feel that it is right there. Is that a good place to be or should I skim another .001 or .002" from the chamber?</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="cgarb, post: 1801521, member: 55318"] I just finished my 1st rebarrel job from a blank. It's a Mauser, in 338-06. I replaced the original barrel with an Adams & Bennett prefit, it didn't shoot well and copper fouled. I bought a Wilson Arms stainless #4 blank and did the threading and chambering on my lathe. I did the work in a steadyrest. My lathe has no spider on the back and the thru bore is small. My question is when I tightened the action to the barrel the go gage the bolt will fall on it but with very light resistance. You don't have to force it closed or anything, but you can feel that it is right there. Is that a good place to be or should I skim another .001 or .002" from the chamber? [/QUOTE]
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Chambering question
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