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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Case annealing
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<blockquote data-quote="ButterBean" data-source="post: 2283025" data-attributes="member: 41385"><p>Your right about the dip method as long as you have a sufficient heating element to keep the salt at a constant temp, most times it will cool and you will need to wait for it to warm up, as far as you other assumptions I totally disagree as I have done hardness and grain restructuring test with a torch and it works just fine, there is no need to take such a simple thing and over complicate it to the point that nobody understands it, To the OP, its this simple set your machine up in a dark room set it to where the neck turns soft orange, if your flame changes color it's too long, anneal them and Let Her Eat, I don't clean before I anneal but that's just me, And that's a great looking rig you have built ,If you have any problems just give me a holler 812-264-6183</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="ButterBean, post: 2283025, member: 41385"] Your right about the dip method as long as you have a sufficient heating element to keep the salt at a constant temp, most times it will cool and you will need to wait for it to warm up, as far as you other assumptions I totally disagree as I have done hardness and grain restructuring test with a torch and it works just fine, there is no need to take such a simple thing and over complicate it to the point that nobody understands it, To the OP, its this simple set your machine up in a dark room set it to where the neck turns soft orange, if your flame changes color it's too long, anneal them and Let Her Eat, I don't clean before I anneal but that's just me, And that's a great looking rig you have built ,If you have any problems just give me a holler 812-264-6183 [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Case annealing
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