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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Long Range Scopes and Other Optics
Burris 34mm Signature Rings Fiasco- BEWARE
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<blockquote data-quote="teesquare" data-source="post: 1490014" data-attributes="member: 56740"><p>Just watched your video. And - I have a few rifles using the Burris Signature Zee rings. Even one with 34mm rings.They have not been a problem for me, so I am curious ....and have a some questions ...but let me start with this:</p><p>If you can envision a teeter-totter...the good old kid's playground pivoting board that we have all likely been bucked off of as kids....imagine standing a few yards from the side of one, in the center. At the pivot point. Note that with ANY movement up or down on one end...there is an equal and opposite movement on the other end. Makes sense, right?</p><p>But, when I watched your video - you are using the 0/0 inserts on the eyepiece end of your scope - and the +20/-20 on the bell end of your scope.</p><p>SO...if I understand this right....you have the eyepiece end clamped at "0"....but you are pulling the front of the scope down 20mils...?</p><p>If that be the case - I believe that that your binding/slop in your parallax is because you you are forcing a flex in the scope tube. You have the back in locked at "level", but you are trying to force the other end of the "teeter-totter" down some via the + and - offset inserts.</p><p>I believe that you can remedy this by an opposite placement of inserts in the ring nearest the eyepiece. Specifically: a +20 on the bottom half and a -20 on the top half of the rear ring.</p><p>Hope this helps....</p><p>T</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="teesquare, post: 1490014, member: 56740"] Just watched your video. And - I have a few rifles using the Burris Signature Zee rings. Even one with 34mm rings.They have not been a problem for me, so I am curious ....and have a some questions ...but let me start with this: If you can envision a teeter-totter...the good old kid's playground pivoting board that we have all likely been bucked off of as kids....imagine standing a few yards from the side of one, in the center. At the pivot point. Note that with ANY movement up or down on one end...there is an equal and opposite movement on the other end. Makes sense, right? But, when I watched your video - you are using the 0/0 inserts on the eyepiece end of your scope - and the +20/-20 on the bell end of your scope. SO...if I understand this right....you have the eyepiece end clamped at "0"....but you are pulling the front of the scope down 20mils...? If that be the case - I believe that that your binding/slop in your parallax is because you you are forcing a flex in the scope tube. You have the back in locked at "level", but you are trying to force the other end of the "teeter-totter" down some via the + and - offset inserts. I believe that you can remedy this by an opposite placement of inserts in the ring nearest the eyepiece. Specifically: a +20 on the bottom half and a -20 on the top half of the rear ring. Hope this helps.... T [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Long Range Scopes and Other Optics
Burris 34mm Signature Rings Fiasco- BEWARE
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