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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Long Range Scopes and Other Optics
Burris 34mm Signature Rings Fiasco- BEWARE
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<blockquote data-quote="dennisinaz" data-source="post: 1450150" data-attributes="member: 40966"><p>I saw this thread and thought I would respond. First a little background. I mount 10-20 scopes a year for myself and others on rifles I build. I have tried a little of everything. I have had EVERY single Vortex scope I have ever mounted or shot fail in short order. 100% of them up to and including the Viper PSTs ( $1100-$1200 range). I have had a number of other scopes fail over the years as well. My 8# 340 Wby is hard on scope especially.</p><p>While at the SHOT this year I talked to someone from the Vortex company at length. He told me that HOW you mount a scope is a LOT more important than we (the industry collectively) thought. He told me that at least on Vortex scope to keep the rings at least 3/8" away from the ocular portion and 3/8" forward of the boss that the turrets sit on. If you mount a scope in the the fashion where you put a load on certain components they don't like it. I suspect Vortex uses soft tubes and this exacerbates the problem.</p><p></p><p>I suspect that all of you are relating factual anecdotes but my very well be gripping the scope in different locations than the OP. I asked this gentleman why they don't put better instruction in the packaging. His answer was that they do now! In any event, I still won't buy Vortex scopes but they sell and awesome torque wrench (far better and easier to use that the Wheeler fat wrench) and adhere to his suggestion of never torquing a ring beyond 18 inch/pounds. </p><p></p><p>Also, NEVER put locktite on ring screws. This will skew the torque values up and make disassembly difficult. I recently had to machine some scope screws out with a carbide end mill because locktite was used and the blued Sako rings were too valuable to heat up and ruin the bluing.</p><p></p><p>A suggestion for locking the rings is to put some type of compound around the head of the screws. I use an inspector's lacquer called "Cross Check torque seal". It comes in myriad colors. I am an aircraft inspector and it is what I use at work to set critical nuts and fasteners. My assigned color at work is orange but I use grey on scope screws.</p><p></p><p>On another note, my experience with the XTR rings has not been very good. They are not particularly round and the metal hardness seems to vary greatly. You do get what you pay for to a large degree.</p><p></p><p>I have used the Signature rings a lot but they don't work well above at 300 magnum levels of recoil. I hope this helps.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="dennisinaz, post: 1450150, member: 40966"] I saw this thread and thought I would respond. First a little background. I mount 10-20 scopes a year for myself and others on rifles I build. I have tried a little of everything. I have had EVERY single Vortex scope I have ever mounted or shot fail in short order. 100% of them up to and including the Viper PSTs ( $1100-$1200 range). I have had a number of other scopes fail over the years as well. My 8# 340 Wby is hard on scope especially. While at the SHOT this year I talked to someone from the Vortex company at length. He told me that HOW you mount a scope is a LOT more important than we (the industry collectively) thought. He told me that at least on Vortex scope to keep the rings at least 3/8" away from the ocular portion and 3/8" forward of the boss that the turrets sit on. If you mount a scope in the the fashion where you put a load on certain components they don't like it. I suspect Vortex uses soft tubes and this exacerbates the problem. I suspect that all of you are relating factual anecdotes but my very well be gripping the scope in different locations than the OP. I asked this gentleman why they don't put better instruction in the packaging. His answer was that they do now! In any event, I still won't buy Vortex scopes but they sell and awesome torque wrench (far better and easier to use that the Wheeler fat wrench) and adhere to his suggestion of never torquing a ring beyond 18 inch/pounds. Also, NEVER put locktite on ring screws. This will skew the torque values up and make disassembly difficult. I recently had to machine some scope screws out with a carbide end mill because locktite was used and the blued Sako rings were too valuable to heat up and ruin the bluing. A suggestion for locking the rings is to put some type of compound around the head of the screws. I use an inspector's lacquer called "Cross Check torque seal". It comes in myriad colors. I am an aircraft inspector and it is what I use at work to set critical nuts and fasteners. My assigned color at work is orange but I use grey on scope screws. On another note, my experience with the XTR rings has not been very good. They are not particularly round and the metal hardness seems to vary greatly. You do get what you pay for to a large degree. I have used the Signature rings a lot but they don't work well above at 300 magnum levels of recoil. I hope this helps. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
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Burris 34mm Signature Rings Fiasco- BEWARE
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