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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Bullet choices for 300 RUM
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<blockquote data-quote="Jon A" data-source="post: 337438" data-attributes="member: 319"><p>Because if you're committing two "wrongs" (or more) to make a "right," sooner or later it will catch up with you and bite you in the ***. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite8" alt=":D" title="Big Grin :D" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":D" /> </p><p></p><p>For example, if you get an opportunity to hunt in a different location with a large difference in elevation from where you developed the dropcharts....it's unlikely you'll be able to go weeks in advance and fire hundreds of rounds to come up with brand new dropcharts from scratch for the new location--you'll need to rely on ballistics programs. If you're fudging to make them work at your current location, expecting the fudges to work at a new location is pushing your luck.</p><p></p><p>Or say you have a problem with your scope . It happens. Things break. If you replace your 1/4 MOA scope with another 1/4 MOA scope all your data you've collected over that past few years should still be valid, right? Well, maybe, maybe not. If you measure you will be sure.</p><p></p><p><a href="http://swfa.com/Leupold-Zero-Point-Magnetic-Boresighter-P3376.aspx" target="_blank">HERE</a> you go. It's really simple and it will pay for itself. Here's a few shots of what it looks like:</p><p></p><p><img src="http://www.jonaadland.com/Hunting/IOR/NoCantReticleTestSmall.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>So with a Mil reticle it 10 Mils should cover 36". Crank the knob 10 mils it should go 36". If it does something different, then it's off. At least now you know. If your MOA scope takes 36 MOA to go 36" then you know it's not really MOA but IPHY. If it takes between 34.25 and 34.5 to go 36" it's dead on. Don't worry be happy. If it's something different, then it's just off and you'll need to correct for it in the ballistic programs. The scope is still usable, you just need to adjust your charts.</p><p></p><p>It's also very valuable for checking things like reticle cant--if you crank in a bunch of elevation and it moves laterally, that may explain mysterious wind or "spin drift" problems you may have thought you had which caused misses at long range.... "Dead clicks" near the top of your elevation travel? Better to know where they start before you waste a bunch of ammo and barrel life wondering why you can't hit the **** target at long range.....</p><p></p><p>Anyway, the scope is such a large part of the equation of hitting at long range I feel people would save themselves so much time, frustration and money by simply checking the operation of theirs when so many scopes frankly don't perform correctly. So it goes without saying, if it's being used as a precision instrument to aid in measuring the BC of a bullet, you really need to know it's calibrated correctly.</p><p></p><p>Yup, that'll work. A simple yardstick at 100 yds is quick and easy and will do the trick:</p><p></p><p><img src="http://www.jonaadland.com/Hunting/IOR/3_18_ReticlePics/ReticleCalCheck.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Hold the rifle steady and click away. It helps to have another person if you don't have a vice or something to lock the rifle down with. Anyway, back to bullets....</p><p></p><p>Low BC's, that's all. They aren't bad bullets and can get the job done at long ranges...especially using rounds like the RUM--it can fling a brick through the air so fast it'll perform impressively out to ranges few "normal" hunters would dream of shooting (which is sort of what we've been talking about). </p><p></p><p>But this being a LRH site, when you're talking about bullets with BC's below .5 there are simply much better tools for the job. Sometimes it takes a while and many rounds downrange for people to figure that out. All I can do is lead the horses to the creek.... <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite8" alt=":D" title="Big Grin :D" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":D" /></p><p></p><p></p><p>Yup. Their old XBT/XLC's with smooth sides and secant ogives actually had higher BC's than their new tipped bullets. The pudgy round noses and grooves took away more than the plastic tips added.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jon A, post: 337438, member: 319"] Because if you're committing two "wrongs" (or more) to make a "right," sooner or later it will catch up with you and bite you in the ***. :D For example, if you get an opportunity to hunt in a different location with a large difference in elevation from where you developed the dropcharts....it's unlikely you'll be able to go weeks in advance and fire hundreds of rounds to come up with brand new dropcharts from scratch for the new location--you'll need to rely on ballistics programs. If you're fudging to make them work at your current location, expecting the fudges to work at a new location is pushing your luck. Or say you have a problem with your scope . It happens. Things break. If you replace your 1/4 MOA scope with another 1/4 MOA scope all your data you've collected over that past few years should still be valid, right? Well, maybe, maybe not. If you measure you will be sure. [URL="http://swfa.com/Leupold-Zero-Point-Magnetic-Boresighter-P3376.aspx"]HERE[/URL] you go. It's really simple and it will pay for itself. Here's a few shots of what it looks like: [img]http://www.jonaadland.com/Hunting/IOR/NoCantReticleTestSmall.jpg[/img] So with a Mil reticle it 10 Mils should cover 36". Crank the knob 10 mils it should go 36". If it does something different, then it's off. At least now you know. If your MOA scope takes 36 MOA to go 36" then you know it's not really MOA but IPHY. If it takes between 34.25 and 34.5 to go 36" it's dead on. Don't worry be happy. If it's something different, then it's just off and you'll need to correct for it in the ballistic programs. The scope is still usable, you just need to adjust your charts. It's also very valuable for checking things like reticle cant--if you crank in a bunch of elevation and it moves laterally, that may explain mysterious wind or "spin drift" problems you may have thought you had which caused misses at long range.... "Dead clicks" near the top of your elevation travel? Better to know where they start before you waste a bunch of ammo and barrel life wondering why you can't hit the **** target at long range..... Anyway, the scope is such a large part of the equation of hitting at long range I feel people would save themselves so much time, frustration and money by simply checking the operation of theirs when so many scopes frankly don't perform correctly. So it goes without saying, if it's being used as a precision instrument to aid in measuring the BC of a bullet, you really need to know it's calibrated correctly. Yup, that'll work. A simple yardstick at 100 yds is quick and easy and will do the trick: [img]http://www.jonaadland.com/Hunting/IOR/3_18_ReticlePics/ReticleCalCheck.jpg[/img] Hold the rifle steady and click away. It helps to have another person if you don't have a vice or something to lock the rifle down with. Anyway, back to bullets.... Low BC's, that's all. They aren't bad bullets and can get the job done at long ranges...especially using rounds like the RUM--it can fling a brick through the air so fast it'll perform impressively out to ranges few "normal" hunters would dream of shooting (which is sort of what we've been talking about). But this being a LRH site, when you're talking about bullets with BC's below .5 there are simply much better tools for the job. Sometimes it takes a while and many rounds downrange for people to figure that out. All I can do is lead the horses to the creek.... :D Yup. Their old XBT/XLC's with smooth sides and secant ogives actually had higher BC's than their new tipped bullets. The pudgy round noses and grooves took away more than the plastic tips added. [/QUOTE]
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