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Long Range Hunting & Shooting
Building my first LR Hunting Rifle
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<blockquote data-quote="britz" data-source="post: 231721" data-attributes="member: 7865"><p>Well, I'll give you my opinion. </p><p></p><p>Since you would like to purchase ammo you need to stick to factory ammo and because you would like to be able to purchase it anyware I'd stick to the more popular rounds like 300 win mag 7mm rem mag, 30-06 280 308 270... you get the point. I'd reccomend anything bigger than 243 and smaller than the 338 mag. If you want to do some long range target shooting the 308 win is probably your best choice because of the match grade ammo available for it from factory but it just depends on what grade ammo you are going to look for. All popular rounds have premium ammo, but only a few have match grade.</p><p></p><p>If you are going to handload, then your doors are very wide. It is all going to be personal choice from here.</p><p></p><p>A cheap easy way to get into a custom is to purcase a savage action or even a stevens 200 rifle for about 350 and have a shillan or krieger put on it in the caliber of choice for about 300. A good stock could run around 300 or you can get into a Choat for about 200. A smith would likely charge about 150 or so to put the gun together, and if you need to have him chamber it, it will cost a little more. Of course all these numbers are just estimates and I'm no smith. Others on the site are going to be able to give you more accurate prices.</p><p></p><p>A cary rifle will have a sporter weight barrel. I shoot a tikka lite and I am comfortable with it shooting at big game out past 600. I would want a heavier rifle to really reach out just for a more stable platform. On the other hand I also have a savage varmint rifle and I wouldn't want to lug that thing around a woods much!</p><p></p><p>A rifle that is going to puch paper primarily is probably best served with light varmint contur IMHO.</p><p></p><p>If you want to shoot compatition, don't get a muzzle brake. If your comfortable with the recoil of a 3006 sporter, you won't need a brake with any of the cartidges I suggested - especially if you get a slightly heavier rifle built. A good recoil pad will do wonders for you. A muzzle brake will reduce the recoil significantly, but it adds length and is much louder.</p><p>good luck, Mark.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="britz, post: 231721, member: 7865"] Well, I'll give you my opinion. Since you would like to purchase ammo you need to stick to factory ammo and because you would like to be able to purchase it anyware I'd stick to the more popular rounds like 300 win mag 7mm rem mag, 30-06 280 308 270... you get the point. I'd reccomend anything bigger than 243 and smaller than the 338 mag. If you want to do some long range target shooting the 308 win is probably your best choice because of the match grade ammo available for it from factory but it just depends on what grade ammo you are going to look for. All popular rounds have premium ammo, but only a few have match grade. If you are going to handload, then your doors are very wide. It is all going to be personal choice from here. A cheap easy way to get into a custom is to purcase a savage action or even a stevens 200 rifle for about 350 and have a shillan or krieger put on it in the caliber of choice for about 300. A good stock could run around 300 or you can get into a Choat for about 200. A smith would likely charge about 150 or so to put the gun together, and if you need to have him chamber it, it will cost a little more. Of course all these numbers are just estimates and I'm no smith. Others on the site are going to be able to give you more accurate prices. A cary rifle will have a sporter weight barrel. I shoot a tikka lite and I am comfortable with it shooting at big game out past 600. I would want a heavier rifle to really reach out just for a more stable platform. On the other hand I also have a savage varmint rifle and I wouldn't want to lug that thing around a woods much! A rifle that is going to puch paper primarily is probably best served with light varmint contur IMHO. If you want to shoot compatition, don't get a muzzle brake. If your comfortable with the recoil of a 3006 sporter, you won't need a brake with any of the cartidges I suggested - especially if you get a slightly heavier rifle built. A good recoil pad will do wonders for you. A muzzle brake will reduce the recoil significantly, but it adds length and is much louder. good luck, Mark. [/QUOTE]
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Building my first LR Hunting Rifle
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