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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
broke my first rifle...
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<blockquote data-quote="Hired Gun" data-source="post: 515638" data-attributes="member: 1290"><p>Wow Richard! You are a man after my own heart. Why just do good enough when perfection is possible. Proper thread technique is to use your compound set at 29 - 29-1/2 and keep your cross feed set to zero as a reference. </p><p></p><p>To time it up it will be far easier to dial in the barrel and cut the shoulder back. Reason I say this is you don't have to dial in that brake and start from scratch for each trial fit. I have fit brakes to prethreaded barrels and it is a pain to rechuck an item to try to cut .003" Using my DRO and going off my last cut I can take .0030" exactly time after time. I have .0002" resolution in my DRO. On timed brakes I only thread and sholder the barrel to come up 2 turns short. This gives me 2 tries at the timing before I have to recut the muzzle back. Rather than relieve the brake it is just as easy to cut a .060 relief to run your threads off into. You are going to have one anyway if you need to time.</p><p></p><p>Factory installed brakes from Weatherby and Remington are all the same way.</p><p></p><p>Here is one I did recently that started out with a .060 relief and it ended up right at 1 o'clock on the first try. You can see I just took my cut off tool and plunged right back in the amount I needed to clock up. </p><p><img src="http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/1657/100ho.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p><img src="http://img806.imageshack.us/img806/3752/096p.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Here it is all timed up and Cerakoted to almost match the factory matte on this Weatherby Sporter.</p><p><img src="http://img580.imageshack.us/img580/8441/112dgv.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p><img src="http://img803.imageshack.us/img803/9090/113jc.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>FWIW: I fit these for what you paid for that brake alone.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Hired Gun, post: 515638, member: 1290"] Wow Richard! You are a man after my own heart. Why just do good enough when perfection is possible. Proper thread technique is to use your compound set at 29 - 29-1/2 and keep your cross feed set to zero as a reference. To time it up it will be far easier to dial in the barrel and cut the shoulder back. Reason I say this is you don't have to dial in that brake and start from scratch for each trial fit. I have fit brakes to prethreaded barrels and it is a pain to rechuck an item to try to cut .003" Using my DRO and going off my last cut I can take .0030" exactly time after time. I have .0002" resolution in my DRO. On timed brakes I only thread and sholder the barrel to come up 2 turns short. This gives me 2 tries at the timing before I have to recut the muzzle back. Rather than relieve the brake it is just as easy to cut a .060 relief to run your threads off into. You are going to have one anyway if you need to time. Factory installed brakes from Weatherby and Remington are all the same way. Here is one I did recently that started out with a .060 relief and it ended up right at 1 o'clock on the first try. You can see I just took my cut off tool and plunged right back in the amount I needed to clock up. [IMG]http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/1657/100ho.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img806.imageshack.us/img806/3752/096p.jpg[/IMG] Here it is all timed up and Cerakoted to almost match the factory matte on this Weatherby Sporter. [IMG]http://img580.imageshack.us/img580/8441/112dgv.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img803.imageshack.us/img803/9090/113jc.jpg[/IMG] FWIW: I fit these for what you paid for that brake alone. [/QUOTE]
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broke my first rifle...
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