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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
best quality brass for .22-250 AI
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<blockquote data-quote="Fiftydriver" data-source="post: 35922" data-attributes="member: 10"><p>Milanuk,</p><p></p><p>I have used both Win and Rem brass and both have their pluses and minuses.</p><p></p><p>The Win brass is harder and a bit stronger then most brass on the market. THis makes it easier to machine if you will as it cuts easier because of its hardness.</p><p></p><p>Primer pockets will also tend to stay a bit tighter for a bit longer with top loads because of the hardness of the case head.</p><p></p><p>It will also have a tendancy to have slightly higher shoulder splits when fireforming. I say this only to keep it in mind as a properly chambered AI wildcat should have nearly 100% success when fireforming factory or proper level handloads.</p><p></p><p>If you are getting shoulder splits often, either your using previously fired brass, your headspace measurement is to long or the pressure in your handloads is to low.</p><p></p><p>Yes, to low a pressure in fireforming cases will result in shoulder splits much more often then high pressure. Keep this in mind.</p><p></p><p>Remington brass is softer then Win brass by a fair margin on average but will fireform easier then the harder Win brass. It will also loose its primer pockets a bit sooner, just like Norma and Lapus brass.</p><p></p><p>I recommend sorting by weight all your Rem and Win brass, just makes the loads of brass much more consistant. This is low price brass so you will have to do some of the work that you would other wise pay Norma or Lapus to do.</p><p></p><p>Sort by weight, turn the necks if needed, trim, debur flash holes and all that good stuff.</p><p></p><p>I did an experiment a couple years ago using my 6mm-284 with the 107 gr Mk driven to 3500 fps out of my 30" Lilja 3 groove.</p><p></p><p>I wanted to see if I could get better results with the higher priced brass.</p><p></p><p>I quickly found out that my sorted, BR prepped Win cases on average shot groups that were nearly 1" tighter at 500 yards then the pricy stuff right out of the box.</p><p></p><p>Sure, I had to spend some time preping cases but it is easily possible to get true BR quality cases using the Win and Rem brass if you take care to prep the cases like you should.</p><p></p><p>If you do not want to do that, then spending the extra money will be worth it.</p><p></p><p>I know full well the Norma and Lapua hulls are arguably the best on the market, still I would prefer to keep my money at home and use Win or Rem brass.</p><p></p><p>Even Federal brass can be used with good results. Tends to be more in line with Win brass as far as hardness goes but is a little harder to get in bulk.</p><p></p><p>Good Shooting!!</p><p></p><p>Kirby Allen(50)</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Fiftydriver, post: 35922, member: 10"] Milanuk, I have used both Win and Rem brass and both have their pluses and minuses. The Win brass is harder and a bit stronger then most brass on the market. THis makes it easier to machine if you will as it cuts easier because of its hardness. Primer pockets will also tend to stay a bit tighter for a bit longer with top loads because of the hardness of the case head. It will also have a tendancy to have slightly higher shoulder splits when fireforming. I say this only to keep it in mind as a properly chambered AI wildcat should have nearly 100% success when fireforming factory or proper level handloads. If you are getting shoulder splits often, either your using previously fired brass, your headspace measurement is to long or the pressure in your handloads is to low. Yes, to low a pressure in fireforming cases will result in shoulder splits much more often then high pressure. Keep this in mind. Remington brass is softer then Win brass by a fair margin on average but will fireform easier then the harder Win brass. It will also loose its primer pockets a bit sooner, just like Norma and Lapus brass. I recommend sorting by weight all your Rem and Win brass, just makes the loads of brass much more consistant. This is low price brass so you will have to do some of the work that you would other wise pay Norma or Lapus to do. Sort by weight, turn the necks if needed, trim, debur flash holes and all that good stuff. I did an experiment a couple years ago using my 6mm-284 with the 107 gr Mk driven to 3500 fps out of my 30" Lilja 3 groove. I wanted to see if I could get better results with the higher priced brass. I quickly found out that my sorted, BR prepped Win cases on average shot groups that were nearly 1" tighter at 500 yards then the pricy stuff right out of the box. Sure, I had to spend some time preping cases but it is easily possible to get true BR quality cases using the Win and Rem brass if you take care to prep the cases like you should. If you do not want to do that, then spending the extra money will be worth it. I know full well the Norma and Lapua hulls are arguably the best on the market, still I would prefer to keep my money at home and use Win or Rem brass. Even Federal brass can be used with good results. Tends to be more in line with Win brass as far as hardness goes but is a little harder to get in bulk. Good Shooting!! Kirby Allen(50) [/QUOTE]
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best quality brass for .22-250 AI
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