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Long Range Hunting & Shooting
Best or "truest" factory action
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<blockquote data-quote="J E Custom" data-source="post: 1712515" data-attributes="member: 2736"><p>There are many ways/methods of truing an action and any attempt to improve the accuracy of the machining can have a positive effect on accuracy and consistency is a positive move.</p><p></p><p>After doing it many different ways I came to the conclusion that I had to start with the Bolt center line/raceway and base everything off that. this places the barrel bore on the same center as the bolt, chamber, tenon threads and the action threads. then with this accomplished, I like to square every perpindicular surface off this center line. the action threads are chased with the bolt raceway centered so they will be concentric to the bolt and chamber. Barrel threads will be cut to fit these action threads and the chamber and barrel shoulder will be square and centered. </p><p></p><p>Bolt recoil lugs are cut with the bolt centered and the recoil abutments are also machined with the bolt raceway centered and then both surfaces will be lapped</p><p>to improved bolt operation. I will also re cut the recoil lug on actions that have an integral lug, and on those that have a separate recoil lug I use only precision ground lugs that are checked. If I work on a savage or any action that uses the "Floating"</p><p>bolt head, I remove the bolt head to true the face and reassemble it with the spring washer so that when it is fired, it will be square and not offset the case head with firing pressure. (It may align it's self before firing, but if it is not true and square it can cause misalignment of the case head or the bolt when under firing pressure).</p><p></p><p>This all seems like a lot of work, but it is worth it if precision and accuracy is your goal.</p><p></p><p>This method is just the way I like to blueprint and assemble a rifle. I am retired and time is not as important as quality.</p><p></p><p>J E CUSTOM</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="J E Custom, post: 1712515, member: 2736"] There are many ways/methods of truing an action and any attempt to improve the accuracy of the machining can have a positive effect on accuracy and consistency is a positive move. After doing it many different ways I came to the conclusion that I had to start with the Bolt center line/raceway and base everything off that. this places the barrel bore on the same center as the bolt, chamber, tenon threads and the action threads. then with this accomplished, I like to square every perpindicular surface off this center line. the action threads are chased with the bolt raceway centered so they will be concentric to the bolt and chamber. Barrel threads will be cut to fit these action threads and the chamber and barrel shoulder will be square and centered. Bolt recoil lugs are cut with the bolt centered and the recoil abutments are also machined with the bolt raceway centered and then both surfaces will be lapped to improved bolt operation. I will also re cut the recoil lug on actions that have an integral lug, and on those that have a separate recoil lug I use only precision ground lugs that are checked. If I work on a savage or any action that uses the "Floating" bolt head, I remove the bolt head to true the face and reassemble it with the spring washer so that when it is fired, it will be square and not offset the case head with firing pressure. (It may align it's self before firing, but if it is not true and square it can cause misalignment of the case head or the bolt when under firing pressure). This all seems like a lot of work, but it is worth it if precision and accuracy is your goal. This method is just the way I like to blueprint and assemble a rifle. I am retired and time is not as important as quality. J E CUSTOM [/QUOTE]
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Best or "truest" factory action
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