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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Best methods to create low ES and SD hand loads with the easiest and simplest reloading work up.
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<blockquote data-quote="Jud96" data-source="post: 1733907" data-attributes="member: 69478"><p>The biggest factor is finding a powder node in my opinion. If you're not in a node you can have crazy high ES and SD numbers even if you have the most accurate and tedious loading techniques. I also use a Bald Eagle scale that measures to the hundredths place and load every round to +-0.02 of a grain. My Dad uses a standard RCBS 10-10 scale and double checks his charges on the Bald Eagle. He also gets very good ES and SDs, but he also is loading in the middle of nodes. You have to zero and calibrate your scale(s), keep them clean, and stay away from air drifts. If I'm loading a big batch of ammo, I use a Redding BR3 powder measure and throw charges 0.5gr or so under my desired load, then put it on the scale and trickle up to my load and double check it. </p><p></p><p>I use Federal primers, either standard or Gold Metal Match, I don't think there's a big difference but I never interchange the two unless I retest or develop a new load. I've also achieved good ES and SD with Winchester, Remington, Wolf, and CCI primers. I think if you develop your powder around the primer you're using, you can achieve consistency. I think some primers are better than others, but not leaps and bounds better in my opinion.</p><p></p><p>I also use high load density charges and tend to use the slowest powder I can without compressing the powder a ton. I only use stick powders and use mainly temp stable powders. I do use RL26, it's not extremely stable, but it's much better than older Reloder powders and other non stable powders. I believe stable powders keep you in the node throughout the year and will stay consistent and not so temperamental. </p><p></p><p>For brass, I prep every piece of brass I load. I currently only use standard dies and have never had any accuracy issues or problems to warrant the use of bushing dies. I'll eventually get some, but I do not feel handicapped at all with standard dies. I size my brass, trim them, deburr inside and outside the case mouths, uniform the primer pockets, uniform and deburr the flash holes, I also neck turn if necessary for the chamber I'm using. I don't anneal or weight sort my brass. I would like to get a nice annealing machine one day and begin doing that because I know it can help. I also don't waste time sorting bullets or primers. I don't think uniforming the primer pockets and deburring the flash holes makes a huge difference, but this is how I was taught and how I've always prepped my brass.</p><p></p><p>One thing I do when seating bullets, is I seat the bullet halfway, rotate the case, then finish seating the bullet. Again, this is what my Dad taught me when I was little and he loaded thousands of rounds for the Army Marksmanship Unit, so I have always followed this advice. I have heard from him and others, that it makes a difference and can improve bullet runout. It's a very simple step, and once you start doing it, it's second nature to me now and is just a standard part of my technique.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jud96, post: 1733907, member: 69478"] The biggest factor is finding a powder node in my opinion. If you’re not in a node you can have crazy high ES and SD numbers even if you have the most accurate and tedious loading techniques. I also use a Bald Eagle scale that measures to the hundredths place and load every round to +-0.02 of a grain. My Dad uses a standard RCBS 10-10 scale and double checks his charges on the Bald Eagle. He also gets very good ES and SDs, but he also is loading in the middle of nodes. You have to zero and calibrate your scale(s), keep them clean, and stay away from air drifts. If I’m loading a big batch of ammo, I use a Redding BR3 powder measure and throw charges 0.5gr or so under my desired load, then put it on the scale and trickle up to my load and double check it. I use Federal primers, either standard or Gold Metal Match, I don’t think there’s a big difference but I never interchange the two unless I retest or develop a new load. I’ve also achieved good ES and SD with Winchester, Remington, Wolf, and CCI primers. I think if you develop your powder around the primer you’re using, you can achieve consistency. I think some primers are better than others, but not leaps and bounds better in my opinion. I also use high load density charges and tend to use the slowest powder I can without compressing the powder a ton. I only use stick powders and use mainly temp stable powders. I do use RL26, it’s not extremely stable, but it’s much better than older Reloder powders and other non stable powders. I believe stable powders keep you in the node throughout the year and will stay consistent and not so temperamental. For brass, I prep every piece of brass I load. I currently only use standard dies and have never had any accuracy issues or problems to warrant the use of bushing dies. I’ll eventually get some, but I do not feel handicapped at all with standard dies. I size my brass, trim them, deburr inside and outside the case mouths, uniform the primer pockets, uniform and deburr the flash holes, I also neck turn if necessary for the chamber I’m using. I don’t anneal or weight sort my brass. I would like to get a nice annealing machine one day and begin doing that because I know it can help. I also don’t waste time sorting bullets or primers. I don’t think uniforming the primer pockets and deburring the flash holes makes a huge difference, but this is how I was taught and how I’ve always prepped my brass. One thing I do when seating bullets, is I seat the bullet halfway, rotate the case, then finish seating the bullet. Again, this is what my Dad taught me when I was little and he loaded thousands of rounds for the Army Marksmanship Unit, so I have always followed this advice. I have heard from him and others, that it makes a difference and can improve bullet runout. It’s a very simple step, and once you start doing it, it’s second nature to me now and is just a standard part of my technique. [/QUOTE]
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Best methods to create low ES and SD hand loads with the easiest and simplest reloading work up.
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