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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Best methods to create low ES and SD hand loads with the easiest and simplest reloading work up.
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<blockquote data-quote="Wachsmann" data-source="post: 1733880" data-attributes="member: 10429"><p>I agree with everything you said and I have to let some of my rifles cool for quite some time to to recheck between shot. I guess I looking at more about the putting together the load what gives the most consistent ES and SD and has there every been anything that dropped the ES very significant. I reload the same method every time with the exception of annealing because I just haven't broke down and bought an annealer yet. </p><p>Here are my steps...</p><p>1. I de-prime. ( just a de-priming die no sizing).</p><p>2. I clean in dry tumbler walnut red stuff. ( usually a few hours)</p><p>3. Remove and clean primer pockets with a wire brush.</p><p>4. I full length size bumping the shoulder back about .002 for easier cambering.(all hunting riffle). </p><p>5. Clean again to remove any sizing compound. ( about 2 hours).</p><p>6. Measure and trim cases to correct length. </p><p>7. VLD inside of case mouth an debur</p><p>8. Prime all case with RCBS hand primer. I seat them as far as the had primer seats them.</p><p>9. Weigh each charge ( first thrown on the RCBS charge master and then double checked on balance beam). </p><p>10. Seat bullets to a specific Ogive length. </p><p></p><p>I build consistent loads but I still see some ES that are spiking up in the 30 fps range and few I've seen in the 40 fps range. I have suspected its generally something to do with the brass and how the neck tension may be effecting the round. I don't count the first shot on a completely cleaned bore. It's always produced different results. My best method is to shoot, allow to cool, shoot, allow to cool,shoot, allow to cool, and then I run a bore snake through the barrel 3 times. I repeat this till I get 10 shots or 9. I find if I run the bore snake every 3 shots it seem to keep about the same fouling for about 25 or so shots and I can usually group consistently. This was the way I set up my 300 rum which allowed me to take a buck at 761 yards. I felt very good that I could take the shot with good confidence, and I practice a lot out to 1000 yards. </p><p></p><p>So I guess what does it take to get over that hump, It might be a better barrel, (mine are all factory barrels) if its sorting all the brass, bullets (weight and ogive), is it neck turning to a controlled thickness, is it annealing every time. Is it all these things to achieve the top up most ES, SD, and accuracy. I know this takes a lot more time but if its worth it then it might a process to consider. One more thing to add I generally always uses temp stable powder. </p><p></p><p>Please chime in. A lot of us would like to know from the experts.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Wachsmann, post: 1733880, member: 10429"] I agree with everything you said and I have to let some of my rifles cool for quite some time to to recheck between shot. I guess I looking at more about the putting together the load what gives the most consistent ES and SD and has there every been anything that dropped the ES very significant. I reload the same method every time with the exception of annealing because I just haven't broke down and bought an annealer yet. Here are my steps... 1. I de-prime. ( just a de-priming die no sizing). 2. I clean in dry tumbler walnut red stuff. ( usually a few hours) 3. Remove and clean primer pockets with a wire brush. 4. I full length size bumping the shoulder back about .002 for easier cambering.(all hunting riffle). 5. Clean again to remove any sizing compound. ( about 2 hours). 6. Measure and trim cases to correct length. 7. VLD inside of case mouth an debur 8. Prime all case with RCBS hand primer. I seat them as far as the had primer seats them. 9. Weigh each charge ( first thrown on the RCBS charge master and then double checked on balance beam). 10. Seat bullets to a specific Ogive length. I build consistent loads but I still see some ES that are spiking up in the 30 fps range and few I've seen in the 40 fps range. I have suspected its generally something to do with the brass and how the neck tension may be effecting the round. I don't count the first shot on a completely cleaned bore. It's always produced different results. My best method is to shoot, allow to cool, shoot, allow to cool,shoot, allow to cool, and then I run a bore snake through the barrel 3 times. I repeat this till I get 10 shots or 9. I find if I run the bore snake every 3 shots it seem to keep about the same fouling for about 25 or so shots and I can usually group consistently. This was the way I set up my 300 rum which allowed me to take a buck at 761 yards. I felt very good that I could take the shot with good confidence, and I practice a lot out to 1000 yards. So I guess what does it take to get over that hump, It might be a better barrel, (mine are all factory barrels) if its sorting all the brass, bullets (weight and ogive), is it neck turning to a controlled thickness, is it annealing every time. Is it all these things to achieve the top up most ES, SD, and accuracy. I know this takes a lot more time but if its worth it then it might a process to consider. One more thing to add I generally always uses temp stable powder. Please chime in. A lot of us would like to know from the experts. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
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Best methods to create low ES and SD hand loads with the easiest and simplest reloading work up.
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