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Bedding Savage Model 11 30-06
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<blockquote data-quote="Lefty38-55" data-source="post: 1435807" data-attributes="member: 95029"><p>Many, many, MANY years ago I wrote an article online about glass bedding a Savage rifle, with pictures all geared to the home DIY'r and the article was titled "Stock Bedding 101" by Lefty223. You can find various versions of it (all the same article, just formatting) from other sites like Savage Shooters, Snipers Hide, or Predator Masters, etc., just by a simple google search.</p><p></p><p>Even if you only find a text version, there's some good info there for you. That said, there are many other excellent articles available too! One KEY thing to remember about bedding a Savage action is to not bed the tang area, it should remain floated. Also note the caution about forming 'mechanical locks' and use of clay or tape to ward off entry points for where you don't want it to flow.</p><p></p><p>For the forend you now have (as I have used my technique to bed a LH Savage Axis 308 model ( with an amazing factory trigger, oh my!) with the flimsy <em>Tuppowhere-is-it-pointing-now!</em> plastic stock) you can add to the forend, a few graphite arrow shaft pieces on each side to stiffen it up. You may need to cut a vertical channel through a plastic rib to get it to fully seat fore to aft though. I took a Dremel to a few broken arrows and cut 1/8" holes in the sides walls ... so epoxy could fully flow into and out of the shafting from both side and all the holes - imagine 'swiss cheese'.</p><p></p><p>But the holes fulfill another purpose too, as once the epoxy cures, they do form a 'mechanical lock' between the graphite and the epoxy mix, and this is a case where you would want to <em>lock things together well</em>. Also really roughen up or cut gouges or drill holes into the plastic ... rougher the better, at where the bedding will sit for the epoxy to flow into and to more importantly LOCK into. You just don't 'slap on epoxy' on top of an existing surface. It is REPLACING existing material and making a uniform new surface mated to the corresponding action features.</p><p></p><p>Off-topic, but I also use broken arrow shaft pieces for broken wrist stock repairs, as the hollow tube allows air to escape ... as when using a machine bolt or screw in a 'blind' hole, if any trapped air can't get out - then epoxy can't get it ... and one ends up with a 'dry' joint or void.</p><p></p><p><strong>Hope this helps you!</strong></p><p></p><p>Oh, and hey ... that '06 should be a shooter! Also check the action torque values (even before bedding). I have yet to have any Savage shoot > 1" groups routinely, at least 3-shot groups using good hunting softpoint ammo. I had one of the 1st model 11 FL models in lefthand 7mm-08 and oh my, she was a laser! Hornady Lite Magnum factory loads would shoot 3-shots touching @ 100-yards. Those photos are posted somewhere else posted online too, haha!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Lefty38-55, post: 1435807, member: 95029"] Many, many, MANY years ago I wrote an article online about glass bedding a Savage rifle, with pictures all geared to the home DIY'r and the article was titled "Stock Bedding 101" by Lefty223. You can find various versions of it (all the same article, just formatting) from other sites like Savage Shooters, Snipers Hide, or Predator Masters, etc., just by a simple google search. Even if you only find a text version, there's some good info there for you. That said, there are many other excellent articles available too! One KEY thing to remember about bedding a Savage action is to not bed the tang area, it should remain floated. Also note the caution about forming 'mechanical locks' and use of clay or tape to ward off entry points for where you don't want it to flow. For the forend you now have (as I have used my technique to bed a LH Savage Axis 308 model ( with an amazing factory trigger, oh my!) with the flimsy [I]Tuppowhere-is-it-pointing-now![/I] plastic stock) you can add to the forend, a few graphite arrow shaft pieces on each side to stiffen it up. You may need to cut a vertical channel through a plastic rib to get it to fully seat fore to aft though. I took a Dremel to a few broken arrows and cut 1/8" holes in the sides walls ... so epoxy could fully flow into and out of the shafting from both side and all the holes - imagine 'swiss cheese'. But the holes fulfill another purpose too, as once the epoxy cures, they do form a 'mechanical lock' between the graphite and the epoxy mix, and this is a case where you would want to [I]lock things together well[/I]. Also really roughen up or cut gouges or drill holes into the plastic ... rougher the better, at where the bedding will sit for the epoxy to flow into and to more importantly LOCK into. You just don't 'slap on epoxy' on top of an existing surface. It is REPLACING existing material and making a uniform new surface mated to the corresponding action features. Off-topic, but I also use broken arrow shaft pieces for broken wrist stock repairs, as the hollow tube allows air to escape ... as when using a machine bolt or screw in a 'blind' hole, if any trapped air can't get out - then epoxy can't get it ... and one ends up with a 'dry' joint or void. [B]Hope this helps you![/B] Oh, and hey ... that '06 should be a shooter! Also check the action torque values (even before bedding). I have yet to have any Savage shoot > 1" groups routinely, at least 3-shot groups using good hunting softpoint ammo. I had one of the 1st model 11 FL models in lefthand 7mm-08 and oh my, she was a laser! Hornady Lite Magnum factory loads would shoot 3-shots touching @ 100-yards. Those photos are posted somewhere else posted online too, haha! [/QUOTE]
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