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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Bedding in front of recoil lug
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<blockquote data-quote="J E Custom" data-source="post: 433156" data-attributes="member: 2736"><p>Bedding a rifle is not a cookie cutter process in my opinion. I look at the requirements/uses</p><p>of the rifle, the Type of action, barrel contour (Straight taper or contoured) and the weight </p><p>and length of the barrel to make the decision on the type of bedding.</p><p></p><p>If it is a heavy,long barrel I bed up to 1 " if it the shank is straight in front of the reciever.</p><p></p><p>If it is a short, light barrel then I only bed about 1/2" in front of the reciever.And as others </p><p>have said if it doesn't shoot well I can remove it back to the reciever without changing the</p><p>original bedding.</p><p></p><p>On some rifles that are bench/target type rifles that shoot rapid fire strings that heat up the</p><p>barrels I will try to full float the barrel for better cooling.</p><p></p><p>As far as bedding the recoil lug I like to lock it in with full bedding except for the bottom of the</p><p>lug, I clearance it .020 for heat growth. </p><p></p><p>The recoil lug is the anchor for the action and the action screws only hold it down so any </p><p>growth will be back and the screws will allow this without binding the action.</p><p></p><p>There are many different ways to bed a rifle and others have good luck with bedding </p><p>differently but this is what has worked best for me.</p><p></p><p>PS; On actions that the front action screw goes into the recoil lug (Weatherbys,Winchesters,</p><p>Mauser's etc) I 100% bed the recoil lug and float the action screws(I don't want them to</p><p>touch the pillars on the sides.</p><p></p><p>Just the way I do it.</p><p></p><p>J E CUSTOM</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="J E Custom, post: 433156, member: 2736"] Bedding a rifle is not a cookie cutter process in my opinion. I look at the requirements/uses of the rifle, the Type of action, barrel contour (Straight taper or contoured) and the weight and length of the barrel to make the decision on the type of bedding. If it is a heavy,long barrel I bed up to 1 " if it the shank is straight in front of the reciever. If it is a short, light barrel then I only bed about 1/2" in front of the reciever.And as others have said if it doesn't shoot well I can remove it back to the reciever without changing the original bedding. On some rifles that are bench/target type rifles that shoot rapid fire strings that heat up the barrels I will try to full float the barrel for better cooling. As far as bedding the recoil lug I like to lock it in with full bedding except for the bottom of the lug, I clearance it .020 for heat growth. The recoil lug is the anchor for the action and the action screws only hold it down so any growth will be back and the screws will allow this without binding the action. There are many different ways to bed a rifle and others have good luck with bedding differently but this is what has worked best for me. PS; On actions that the front action screw goes into the recoil lug (Weatherbys,Winchesters, Mauser's etc) I 100% bed the recoil lug and float the action screws(I don't want them to touch the pillars on the sides. Just the way I do it. J E CUSTOM [/QUOTE]
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Bedding in front of recoil lug
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