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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Bedding Clean Up
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<blockquote data-quote="Frog4aday" data-source="post: 1671906" data-attributes="member: 9308"><p>I like CoHunt's reply - more than one way to do it and they all work depending on caliber, barrel profile, stock material, etc.. If you were looking to get into benchrest competition with a gun heavier than your car, you would just do whatever it is that they do. But most of us are just hunting and shooting and are happy when we get to 0.5 MOA (or better.) <u><span style="font-size: 12px"><em>For the nitpickers, please note I said "most of us..."</em></span></u></p><p></p><p>I've bedded just the recoil lug area. I've bedded two inches under the barrel. I've full-length bedded. You never know until you do it what is going to work. Plus the circumstances were different in each case, which is why I chose the method I did.</p><p></p><p>I used to bed the recoil lug all the way around. And let me tell you, it is a pain to get the gun out of the bedding when you do that. But, it worked great. Guns shot well. Then I read that people were putting tape on the FRONT of the recoil lug when bedding, then removing the tape after so there was room to get the lug in and out of the stock in the future without 'fighting' it. That made sense to me. So I now bed the back, bottom, and sides of the recoil lug, but tape the front to leave some 'play' in that direction for ease of disassembly and reassembly. What's "right"? I don't know. Ask 10 guys on here and you'll get that many variations of 'right'. I wonder what they teach at 'gunsmithing' school?</p><p></p><p>Bedding just the lug OR bedding some barrel, too, I use layers of duct tape to be my 'dam' and create a gap where I don't want bedding to barrel contact. I really don't care too much what it all looks like <strong>inside</strong> the stock when I'm done. No one will see it unless they take the gun apart. Since it is my gun, they shouldn't be taking it apart. And if they buy it from me, and it becomes 'their' gun, they can tidy it up all they want at that point ;o)</p><p></p><p>What I have learned though is to ALWAYS do the tang/rear area of the action when you do the lug! Actions flex when you tighten that rear screw if there is no bedding back there. It can cause 'weird' things to happen, to include sear release and firing pin fall when you really don't want that. That'll get your attention!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Frog4aday, post: 1671906, member: 9308"] I like CoHunt's reply - more than one way to do it and they all work depending on caliber, barrel profile, stock material, etc.. If you were looking to get into benchrest competition with a gun heavier than your car, you would just do whatever it is that they do. But most of us are just hunting and shooting and are happy when we get to 0.5 MOA (or better.) [U][SIZE=3][I]For the nitpickers, please note I said "most of us..."[/I][/SIZE][/U] I've bedded just the recoil lug area. I've bedded two inches under the barrel. I've full-length bedded. You never know until you do it what is going to work. Plus the circumstances were different in each case, which is why I chose the method I did. I used to bed the recoil lug all the way around. And let me tell you, it is a pain to get the gun out of the bedding when you do that. But, it worked great. Guns shot well. Then I read that people were putting tape on the FRONT of the recoil lug when bedding, then removing the tape after so there was room to get the lug in and out of the stock in the future without 'fighting' it. That made sense to me. So I now bed the back, bottom, and sides of the recoil lug, but tape the front to leave some 'play' in that direction for ease of disassembly and reassembly. What's "right"? I don't know. Ask 10 guys on here and you'll get that many variations of 'right'. I wonder what they teach at 'gunsmithing' school? Bedding just the lug OR bedding some barrel, too, I use layers of duct tape to be my 'dam' and create a gap where I don't want bedding to barrel contact. I really don't care too much what it all looks like [B]inside[/B] the stock when I'm done. No one will see it unless they take the gun apart. Since it is my gun, they shouldn't be taking it apart. And if they buy it from me, and it becomes 'their' gun, they can tidy it up all they want at that point ;o) What I have learned though is to ALWAYS do the tang/rear area of the action when you do the lug! Actions flex when you tighten that rear screw if there is no bedding back there. It can cause 'weird' things to happen, to include sear release and firing pin fall when you really don't want that. That'll get your attention! [/QUOTE]
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