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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Bedding Clean Up
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<blockquote data-quote="cohunt" data-source="post: 1671502" data-attributes="member: 94491"><p>I tape the front and bottom of the lug, not sides or back</p><p></p><p>Reasons: 1-keep the bottom of the lug from touching/bottoming</p><p>2- the lug really is the only thing that keeps a round receiver from rotating under recoil in the stock so I like a tight fit on the sides</p><p>3- the front of the lug really doesnt touch the stock under recoil so this area is taped for easier removal of the action from the bedding</p><p></p><p>As far as the dam- I dont really care what it looks like as you cant see it when the action is in the stock, but I have used both a clay dam, and multi layers of masking tape on the barrel to create a dam-- the tape makes sure I have a consistant "free float" on the barrel and creates a dam- just make sure you dont use too many layers or you can create uneven pressure on the action.</p><p>As far as under the chamber-- it depends on the barrel profile, I never bed under the taper of the barrel, so some heavier/magnum barrel will get about 1.5" under the chamber, but lighter weight tapered barrels may have as little as 1/2" of non-tapered straight area under the chamber to bed.</p><p>Just my opinions, I'm no pro.</p><p>Not really sure there is a "correct" way to bed--- more than 1 way to skin a cat.The main function of bedding is to create a consistant, stress free, bedding area for the lug and action so as not to create any undue stress on the action when torqued down-- the rest seems to be subjective and aesthetics.</p><p>I never bead any tapered areas on the barrel, as when it heats up it expands and a tapered area can then push on the bedded area under heat expansion-- if you want to bed the barrel, I used a "band" of bedding to dampen the barrel whip harmonics rather than full bed barrel, but only if freefloating doesnt produce the desired accuracy. </p><p>I use aluminum pillars too.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="cohunt, post: 1671502, member: 94491"] I tape the front and bottom of the lug, not sides or back Reasons: 1-keep the bottom of the lug from touching/bottoming 2- the lug really is the only thing that keeps a round receiver from rotating under recoil in the stock so I like a tight fit on the sides 3- the front of the lug really doesnt touch the stock under recoil so this area is taped for easier removal of the action from the bedding As far as the dam- I dont really care what it looks like as you cant see it when the action is in the stock, but I have used both a clay dam, and multi layers of masking tape on the barrel to create a dam-- the tape makes sure I have a consistant "free float" on the barrel and creates a dam- just make sure you dont use too many layers or you can create uneven pressure on the action. As far as under the chamber-- it depends on the barrel profile, I never bed under the taper of the barrel, so some heavier/magnum barrel will get about 1.5" under the chamber, but lighter weight tapered barrels may have as little as 1/2" of non-tapered straight area under the chamber to bed. Just my opinions, I'm no pro. Not really sure there is a "correct" way to bed--- more than 1 way to skin a cat.The main function of bedding is to create a consistant, stress free, bedding area for the lug and action so as not to create any undue stress on the action when torqued down-- the rest seems to be subjective and aesthetics. I never bead any tapered areas on the barrel, as when it heats up it expands and a tapered area can then push on the bedded area under heat expansion-- if you want to bed the barrel, I used a "band" of bedding to dampen the barrel whip harmonics rather than full bed barrel, but only if freefloating doesnt produce the desired accuracy. I use aluminum pillars too. [/QUOTE]
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