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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Bedding an HS Precision Stock
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<blockquote data-quote="J E Custom" data-source="post: 1177581" data-attributes="member: 2736"><p>The thought behind bedding in front of the recoil lug is that I gives the barrel and action some additional support. There are several instances where this can hurt, One is if the barrel shank is not perfectly straight where it is bedded. (Most factory barrels have tapered shanks or no shank and start tapering at the recoil lug) if the shank is not perfectly straight, as the barrel heats up it can push on the receiver changing the POI.</p><p></p><p>If the barrel is very light (Small contour) there is no need for the extra support. It however can change the harmonics for better or worse so sometimes I end up bedding a small area in front of the recoil lug on light weight barrels that shoot heavy bullets or have large bores for the dampening</p><p>effect it will have on the light barrel. </p><p></p><p>I normally bed about 1/2" in front of the recoil lug to start with for mid weight barrels and up to 1" for the heavy/long barrels As long as I do a stress free bedding and the barrel shank has no taper it seems to work very well.</p><p></p><p>I have also bedded in this manor and had to remove some if not all the bedding to make the rifle shoot. (Most of these were light weight barrels that were 20" or less) As we all can agree, rifles can react differently to different things and we make the adjustment in the bedding if we have to.</p><p></p><p>All Of my long, heavy barreled rifles have some bedding in front of the recoil lug But that does not mean that I would not remove it if it wasn't shooting.</p><p></p><p>Everyone has there way of getting there rifle to shoot well so there lies the difference in opinions.</p><p></p><p>I prefer to do everything that I intend to do to the rifle before I start working up loads. I use to think that I could make a rifle shoot without any bedding, and if it didn't, I would bed it to make it shoot better. This worked some of the time and other times it changed the harmonics (Just like working up loads to get accuracy) but the accuracy fell off with the existing load that were once very good.</p><p></p><p>So that Is the reason "I" prefer to do a full, stress free pillar bed in the beginning and when I work up a accurate loads it remains accurate as long as I don't change any components.</p><p></p><p>Each rifle may respond differently so some trial and error may be necessary proving that the rule is, there is no rule.</p><p></p><p>Just my opinion</p><p></p><p>J E CUSTOM</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="J E Custom, post: 1177581, member: 2736"] The thought behind bedding in front of the recoil lug is that I gives the barrel and action some additional support. There are several instances where this can hurt, One is if the barrel shank is not perfectly straight where it is bedded. (Most factory barrels have tapered shanks or no shank and start tapering at the recoil lug) if the shank is not perfectly straight, as the barrel heats up it can push on the receiver changing the POI. If the barrel is very light (Small contour) there is no need for the extra support. It however can change the harmonics for better or worse so sometimes I end up bedding a small area in front of the recoil lug on light weight barrels that shoot heavy bullets or have large bores for the dampening effect it will have on the light barrel. I normally bed about 1/2" in front of the recoil lug to start with for mid weight barrels and up to 1" for the heavy/long barrels As long as I do a stress free bedding and the barrel shank has no taper it seems to work very well. I have also bedded in this manor and had to remove some if not all the bedding to make the rifle shoot. (Most of these were light weight barrels that were 20" or less) As we all can agree, rifles can react differently to different things and we make the adjustment in the bedding if we have to. All Of my long, heavy barreled rifles have some bedding in front of the recoil lug But that does not mean that I would not remove it if it wasn't shooting. Everyone has there way of getting there rifle to shoot well so there lies the difference in opinions. I prefer to do everything that I intend to do to the rifle before I start working up loads. I use to think that I could make a rifle shoot without any bedding, and if it didn't, I would bed it to make it shoot better. This worked some of the time and other times it changed the harmonics (Just like working up loads to get accuracy) but the accuracy fell off with the existing load that were once very good. So that Is the reason "I" prefer to do a full, stress free pillar bed in the beginning and when I work up a accurate loads it remains accurate as long as I don't change any components. Each rifle may respond differently so some trial and error may be necessary proving that the rule is, there is no rule. Just my opinion J E CUSTOM [/QUOTE]
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Bedding an HS Precision Stock
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