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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Bedding a Mauser
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<blockquote data-quote="MagnumManiac" data-source="post: 1516784" data-attributes="member: 10755"><p>I will add that I make my own 45 degree tapered cone washers to keep the stock bolt holes centred while bedding sets.</p><p>I use all thread of the correct thread/pitch, the cone washers and a nut lightly snugged by fingers, no tools. I use these for pillar bedding too.</p><p>The only action type I use tubing on are Rugers, either M77's or MKII's. The reason is the angled front screw is supporting the entire action when the bedding sets up if you use screws, this can impart undue and unwanted stress in the action when it is finally tightened after bedding is done. I do these WITHOUT any clearance around the recoil lug, they are firm bedded. I bed the recoil lug first, then the middle and finally the tang.</p><p>If it's a wooden stocked model, I always add pillars at the same time as doing the recoil lug. The tang is left last as it acts as the datum that the action stays squarely in the stock. Have seen Rugers and Mausers that ran uphill in the stock from tang to recoil lug because there was no support left when the recoil lug and barrel channel were altered.</p><p>It doesn't affect function, but it is butt ugly.</p><p></p><p>Cheers.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="MagnumManiac, post: 1516784, member: 10755"] I will add that I make my own 45 degree tapered cone washers to keep the stock bolt holes centred while bedding sets. I use all thread of the correct thread/pitch, the cone washers and a nut lightly snugged by fingers, no tools. I use these for pillar bedding too. The only action type I use tubing on are Rugers, either M77’s or MKII’s. The reason is the angled front screw is supporting the entire action when the bedding sets up if you use screws, this can impart undue and unwanted stress in the action when it is finally tightened after bedding is done. I do these WITHOUT any clearance around the recoil lug, they are firm bedded. I bed the recoil lug first, then the middle and finally the tang. If it’s a wooden stocked model, I always add pillars at the same time as doing the recoil lug. The tang is left last as it acts as the datum that the action stays squarely in the stock. Have seen Rugers and Mausers that ran uphill in the stock from tang to recoil lug because there was no support left when the recoil lug and barrel channel were altered. It doesn’t affect function, but it is butt ugly. Cheers. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Bedding a Mauser
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