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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Basics of Reloading for Long Range Shooting
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<blockquote data-quote="Mysticplayer" data-source="post: 97065" data-attributes="member: 8947"><p>The two above posts include a wealth of info. I would like to add a few points.</p><p></p><p>For me, LR accuracy boils down to consistency. Each bang must be as identical to the last and next as possible for the bullets to land in the same place.</p><p></p><p>Let's assume you have a rifle, optics, and bench set up to allow you to shoot sub MOA at LR. Otherwise, all the load development in the world will not help.</p><p></p><p>I start with a concentric and true chamber. Nothing else matters. You can check this with a concentricity guage and measure a few fired cases as it comes out of the chamber. Anything over 4 thou runout and you may as well consider a new barrel. Most chambers, even factory one, usually run 0 to 2 thou runout.</p><p></p><p>While loading, I want to maintain that case alignment so I only use Lee collet neck sizing dies (bushing dies are another great alternative). Seating die is usually not too critical. Just measure afterwards to ensure no runout has been induced.</p><p></p><p>With very low runout out ammo, the load work up is straightforward as described above and in many other locations. Use the best bullets you can.</p><p></p><p>I do turn necks liking nothing under 12 thou and over 14thou. I also try an anneal the necks after a few firings. I like high neck tension and find 3 to 4 thou about right. I strongly recommend match primers, and quality temp stable powders. I do not weigh my brass as the error in the brass manf is greater then the weights I would measure. I do check case volume as the combustion chamber affects pressures and velocities. I don't ream primer pockets but do remove the burrs inside the case. I might consider drilling flash holes if that can be proven to help. I weigh all my charges and hold to min 1 tenth even in large magnums (I have found as little as two tenths to make a difference in accuracy in cases like the 7RM). Clean the bore only when accuracy degrades and clean only as much as necessary to restore accuracy. Watch your barrel temp and how it reacts to heat. Ensure your scope maintains Point of Aim (yes, some big name scopes move around under recoil). Keep good notes.</p><p></p><p>Be as consistent in form and rifle control as possible. We are ultimately, the weak link.</p><p></p><p>With a quality rifle and ammo, there is no such thing as a flyer (shooter error maybe). If a shot is obviously 'wrong', I mark that brass. Firing again usually has the same result - pitch that brass. </p><p></p><p>What you have left is a tuned set of components that is as consistent as humanely possible. That confidence is what makes great groups possible. This doesn't mean the rig must shoot microscopic groups. It just means that it is consistent enough to steer under shooting conditions.</p><p></p><p>A consistent 1/2 MOA rifle and a shooter that knows how to steer it is truly a tough competitor to beat. The best and worse BR rifle is probably only a tenth or two MOA apart.</p><p></p><p>The best and worse wind/condition doper is separated by a foot or more.</p><p></p><p>Jerry</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Mysticplayer, post: 97065, member: 8947"] The two above posts include a wealth of info. I would like to add a few points. For me, LR accuracy boils down to consistency. Each bang must be as identical to the last and next as possible for the bullets to land in the same place. Let's assume you have a rifle, optics, and bench set up to allow you to shoot sub MOA at LR. Otherwise, all the load development in the world will not help. I start with a concentric and true chamber. Nothing else matters. You can check this with a concentricity guage and measure a few fired cases as it comes out of the chamber. Anything over 4 thou runout and you may as well consider a new barrel. Most chambers, even factory one, usually run 0 to 2 thou runout. While loading, I want to maintain that case alignment so I only use Lee collet neck sizing dies (bushing dies are another great alternative). Seating die is usually not too critical. Just measure afterwards to ensure no runout has been induced. With very low runout out ammo, the load work up is straightforward as described above and in many other locations. Use the best bullets you can. I do turn necks liking nothing under 12 thou and over 14thou. I also try an anneal the necks after a few firings. I like high neck tension and find 3 to 4 thou about right. I strongly recommend match primers, and quality temp stable powders. I do not weigh my brass as the error in the brass manf is greater then the weights I would measure. I do check case volume as the combustion chamber affects pressures and velocities. I don't ream primer pockets but do remove the burrs inside the case. I might consider drilling flash holes if that can be proven to help. I weigh all my charges and hold to min 1 tenth even in large magnums (I have found as little as two tenths to make a difference in accuracy in cases like the 7RM). Clean the bore only when accuracy degrades and clean only as much as necessary to restore accuracy. Watch your barrel temp and how it reacts to heat. Ensure your scope maintains Point of Aim (yes, some big name scopes move around under recoil). Keep good notes. Be as consistent in form and rifle control as possible. We are ultimately, the weak link. With a quality rifle and ammo, there is no such thing as a flyer (shooter error maybe). If a shot is obviously 'wrong', I mark that brass. Firing again usually has the same result - pitch that brass. What you have left is a tuned set of components that is as consistent as humanely possible. That confidence is what makes great groups possible. This doesn't mean the rig must shoot microscopic groups. It just means that it is consistent enough to steer under shooting conditions. A consistent 1/2 MOA rifle and a shooter that knows how to steer it is truly a tough competitor to beat. The best and worse BR rifle is probably only a tenth or two MOA apart. The best and worse wind/condition doper is separated by a foot or more. Jerry [/QUOTE]
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Basics of Reloading for Long Range Shooting
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