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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Basics of Bedding, and other stuff...
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<blockquote data-quote="Ian M" data-source="post: 54972" data-attributes="member: 25"><p>Brent, Chris,</p><p>Masking is a very good idea, some guys mask the entire outside of the stock if it is a customer's rifle. Also the modeling clay sold by Brownells is essential for filling screw, bolt holes, any recesses that you do not want bedding compound in. Also makes a dam up in front of the lug recess, stops bedding compound from moving forward into barrel channel, makes a nice clean line. Also a clay dam determines how big the barrel pad will be if you include a barrel pad ahead of the lug recess.</p><p>Amazing how easy Marine Tex is to clean up when it is wet, just a bit of spray-oil on a rag or Q-Tip and comes right off any surface. I have a pressurized can of Knight Oil and it is doing a great job.</p><p></p><p>Bottom line, for pillars, full action bedding, bottom metal bedding, barrel pad, plus sides of mag well - probably smarter to let a pro do it. Those guys have done so much that they have little tricks and methods that someone who has never done any bedding would not even think of. </p><p>Full action bedding top and bottom, plus pillars is the way to go with any stock, you can even hear the difference when you close the bolt and dry fire. Even pillars have to be individually sized for length, opened up inside, many pros make their own oversized pillars.</p><p></p><p>For basic bedding like tang and lug recess, even I can do that one.</p><p></p><p>Is it worth doing - big time. Without bedding composite stocks eventually compress from recoil, maybe also form overtightening stock bolts - then things shift, barrels touch channels etc.. Even HS aluminum bedding blocks pound a bit, plus they usually don't mate evenly anyhow. Good bedding job will fix that, makes you rifle better.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Ian M, post: 54972, member: 25"] Brent, Chris, Masking is a very good idea, some guys mask the entire outside of the stock if it is a customer's rifle. Also the modeling clay sold by Brownells is essential for filling screw, bolt holes, any recesses that you do not want bedding compound in. Also makes a dam up in front of the lug recess, stops bedding compound from moving forward into barrel channel, makes a nice clean line. Also a clay dam determines how big the barrel pad will be if you include a barrel pad ahead of the lug recess. Amazing how easy Marine Tex is to clean up when it is wet, just a bit of spray-oil on a rag or Q-Tip and comes right off any surface. I have a pressurized can of Knight Oil and it is doing a great job. Bottom line, for pillars, full action bedding, bottom metal bedding, barrel pad, plus sides of mag well - probably smarter to let a pro do it. Those guys have done so much that they have little tricks and methods that someone who has never done any bedding would not even think of. Full action bedding top and bottom, plus pillars is the way to go with any stock, you can even hear the difference when you close the bolt and dry fire. Even pillars have to be individually sized for length, opened up inside, many pros make their own oversized pillars. For basic bedding like tang and lug recess, even I can do that one. Is it worth doing - big time. Without bedding composite stocks eventually compress from recoil, maybe also form overtightening stock bolts - then things shift, barrels touch channels etc.. Even HS aluminum bedding blocks pound a bit, plus they usually don't mate evenly anyhow. Good bedding job will fix that, makes you rifle better. [/QUOTE]
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