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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Suppressors
Barrel Threading
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<blockquote data-quote="davidheart" data-source="post: 2634807" data-attributes="member: 119362"><p>Take multiple 2 thou passes so you're not over working the steel and only take as much as you need. Fit should have clearance but not be loose.</p><p></p><p>Threading 1/2x28 on a 30 cal is generally not recommended, but I haven't experienced any issue with my 30's on featherweight barrels. Do take note your zero will move substantially with a suppressor on a featherweight barrel. Always confirm zero before hunting!</p><p></p><p>Make sure your smith takes his time,</p><ul> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">First prepare the 1/2x28-5/8x24 adapter by indicating on shoulder side of the adapter. Face the back side so it'll be square for later use.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Dial indicate off the bore of the barrel instead of the outer diameter or deltronic pins</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Face the muzzle.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Turn down to 0.500 diameter slightly longer than the thread adapter length</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Reindicate to verify zero hasn't moved,</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Turn down to 0.498, set your undercut at .457 and face your shoulder</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Thread to 1/2x28, checking your work, taking only enough to tightly fit a 1/2x28 to 5/8x24 thread adapter.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">The adapter and the shoulder should be perfect. Red loc-tite and clean.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Face the muzzle and crown.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Face the shoulder of the adapter so it's 0.600 from the muzzle.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Clean up the backside of the muzzle so it blends at an angle with the barrel.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Finish to your preference and enjoy.</li> </ul><p>I have this on my Tikka, Model 7, and CZ527. The Tikka barrel being the thickest of the bunch and all shoot beautifully using suppressors. I *think* I have the right steps laid out above but a good smith should be able to remember anything else important of note.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="davidheart, post: 2634807, member: 119362"] Take multiple 2 thou passes so you're not over working the steel and only take as much as you need. Fit should have clearance but not be loose. Threading 1/2x28 on a 30 cal is generally not recommended, but I haven't experienced any issue with my 30's on featherweight barrels. Do take note your zero will move substantially with a suppressor on a featherweight barrel. Always confirm zero before hunting! Make sure your smith takes his time, [LIST] [*]First prepare the 1/2x28-5/8x24 adapter by indicating on shoulder side of the adapter. Face the back side so it'll be square for later use. [*]Dial indicate off the bore of the barrel instead of the outer diameter or deltronic pins [*]Face the muzzle. [*]Turn down to 0.500 diameter slightly longer than the thread adapter length [*]Reindicate to verify zero hasn't moved, [*]Turn down to 0.498, set your undercut at .457 and face your shoulder [*]Thread to 1/2x28, checking your work, taking only enough to tightly fit a 1/2x28 to 5/8x24 thread adapter. [*]The adapter and the shoulder should be perfect. Red loc-tite and clean. [*]Face the muzzle and crown. [*]Face the shoulder of the adapter so it's 0.600 from the muzzle. [*]Clean up the backside of the muzzle so it blends at an angle with the barrel. [*]Finish to your preference and enjoy. [/LIST] I have this on my Tikka, Model 7, and CZ527. The Tikka barrel being the thickest of the bunch and all shoot beautifully using suppressors. I *think* I have the right steps laid out above but a good smith should be able to remember anything else important of note. [/QUOTE]
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