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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Barrel Blank Curve
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<blockquote data-quote="Will Gray" data-source="post: 2567336" data-attributes="member: 65116"><p>My lathe is an OLD Craftsman 12" X 36" Cannot get anything larger than 3/4" through the headstock so I have to work with the full lenght of the barrel. I profile the barrel, turn the tenon to size and thread between centers with the steady rest up close to the threads. There I run it with the bronze supports snug, lubed and running smoothly. With the lathe dog tied tightly to the plate, I remove the tailstock and chamber using a floating "center" for the reamer. The reamer seeks the center of rotation. How close to blueprint, I have no idea. I don't measure any of it. I have done maybe 10 ten barrels that way from 223 right up to 416 all with no issues and my rifles are all well under 1" at 100yds, brass looks good, firing pin strikes are in the center of the primers. I believe that having the axis of the bullet exactly matching the axis of the breech end of the barrel is all that really matters. My system seems to do that very nicely. A free floating stiff stock with tight screws all around and correct headspace with a good scope is the best I can do. It is a hobby. I have a 338 barrel coming from Shilen and a 338 EDGE Dave Manson reamer being made (his tools cut steel like ice cream). I pour on lots of oil for all the work. I used bacon grease a long time but have found Mobil 1 5-20 (with 10k miles on it) works just fine. I would enjoy seeing your setup I am sure.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Will Gray, post: 2567336, member: 65116"] My lathe is an OLD Craftsman 12" X 36" Cannot get anything larger than 3/4" through the headstock so I have to work with the full lenght of the barrel. I profile the barrel, turn the tenon to size and thread between centers with the steady rest up close to the threads. There I run it with the bronze supports snug, lubed and running smoothly. With the lathe dog tied tightly to the plate, I remove the tailstock and chamber using a floating "center" for the reamer. The reamer seeks the center of rotation. How close to blueprint, I have no idea. I don't measure any of it. I have done maybe 10 ten barrels that way from 223 right up to 416 all with no issues and my rifles are all well under 1" at 100yds, brass looks good, firing pin strikes are in the center of the primers. I believe that having the axis of the bullet exactly matching the axis of the breech end of the barrel is all that really matters. My system seems to do that very nicely. A free floating stiff stock with tight screws all around and correct headspace with a good scope is the best I can do. It is a hobby. I have a 338 barrel coming from Shilen and a 338 EDGE Dave Manson reamer being made (his tools cut steel like ice cream). I pour on lots of oil for all the work. I used bacon grease a long time but have found Mobil 1 5-20 (with 10k miles on it) works just fine. I would enjoy seeing your setup I am sure. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
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Barrel Blank Curve
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