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<blockquote data-quote="jon.henry755" data-source="post: 561062" data-attributes="member: 29115"><p>Hi WildWillie and bloodrock,</p><p>For openers, paper tuning is only ever performed at a single distance. The reason for this is to achieve a basic alignment between your arrow rests center and your nocking point. It's not a perfect alignment, but it is a good starting point. Once you have this alignment it needs to be fine tuned on the range during actual shooting using the steps that I've outlined in other threads for tuning your broadheads. </p><p></p><p>These same steps need to be applied for fine tuning your windage alignment to insure your crossbow is shooting straight at all distances. </p><p></p><p>Currently you are attempting to over achieve an alignment during the paper tuning process and in doing so, you are causing yourselves more problems and confusion.</p><p></p><p>Let's simplify the process as follows:</p><p></p><p>1. Do not shot bare shafts! At 15 yards, shoot one arrow at your paper and each time you repeat the process please insure you are using only that same arrow. </p><p></p><p>2. Shot one shot and adjust your nocking point only according to the tear that occurs. If you get a vertical tear adjust only your Whisker Biscuits elevation in the direction specified by PSE's paper tuning instructions. </p><p></p><p>3. Once you have a good bullet hole with clean holes from the arrow shaft and the vanes Stop there and proceed no further. Your paper tuning exercise is over and finished! Now it's time to set up your outdoor target and move to 20 yards to begin sighting in your scope and making a new series of adjustments.</p><p></p><p>4. Insure your scopes windage is set to approximately it's middle position. This is done by counting how many clicks you have in each direction remaining on your windage dial. (Write This information down). Now bring your scopes windage to it's center. Example: If your scope has a total of 200 clicks of windage, move it so you have about 100 clicks right and 100 clicks left. This is the center.</p><p></p><p>5 If using an HHA Optimizer Speed Dial make sure your Speed Dial is set on zero and not used during this process. </p><p></p><p>6. From a stable bench rested position take a shot at your targets center. I like to use a 1" florescent dot as my target at this and all other distances. </p><p></p><p>7. Wherever your arrow hits windage wise, you will now adjust both your arrow rest and nocking point in the same direction to compensate. To be clear about this, if your shot was three inches left of center you will move the Whisker Biscuit a tiny amount to the right and you will turn your nocking point serving one and a half turns to the right as well. You are doing this to move the shot to the right, but at the same time to maintain your alignment between the arrow rest and the nocking point.</p><p></p><p>8. You will continue making these adjustments at this distance until you have it as perfectly centered as possible. </p><p></p><p>9. Now using your scopes vertical adjustment, make whatever adjustments are necessary to bring your vertical alignment to the exact center of your target. </p><p>Please let me know if you find that you don't have enough adjustments on your scope to achieve this. That means that you require shimming on your scope rings and there is a special set of rings made by Burris to fix this problem.</p><p></p><p>9. Once you complete this at 20 yards, you will now need to move back to 50 or 60 yards and perform the windage alignment at this distance. Remember to adjust your HHA Optimizer Speed Dial for this distance. At 50 yards it should be approximately 13.5 and at 60 yards it will be about 21. These settings will get you on the target and close to the center from an elevation point of view.</p><p></p><p>What is most important is where your windage is now hitting on the target, so you can make a quick elevation adjustment to put your arrows height where you want it. If using an HHA Optimizer Speed Dial use your speed dial to make the elevation adjustment. If not using an Optimizer pick the correct MOA for the shot. </p><p></p><p>For the windage, if your arrow is not in the exact center or same spot it was at 20 yards, this means that your windage is walking, which means the nocking point and arrow rest are not in exact alignment with one another. </p><p></p><p>In these cases you only need to move the nocking point to achieve the final alignment. Move your nocking point either right or left until your arrow is hitting in the exact center of your target at 50 or 60 yards. </p><p></p><p>10. Once this has been achieved it is very important for you to move back into 20 yards and adjust your HHA Optimizer Speed Dial back down to zero and then shoot another arrow at 20 yards. Your arrow at 20 yards should be in the same spot windage wise as it was when you just finished at 50 or 60 yards. This now tells you that your crossbows nocking point to arrow rest alignment is perfect. </p><p></p><p>11. The last thing you now need to do is to use your scopes windage adjustment to perform any minor tweaks in windage in the event you need to move it a half inch or less one way o another. When finished you will have aligned your nocking point to arrow rest and then your scope to the path of the arrows alignment. </p><p></p><p>What the paper tuner says at this point is useless and irrelevant. </p><p></p><p>Also, please keep in mind that when you are performing this tuning exercise your arrows are being guided by the vanes in the rear of your arrows. Once you put a broadhead on your arrows anything other than a mechanical head will take over flght control and steering is guided by the front end of the arrow and your vanes are acting as flight stabilizers. this means that any windage deviations that could not have been seen during back end fight control will become magnified by the broadhead. This means most of us have had to readjust out windage by moving our nocking point and arrow rest to compensate for flight differences when setting up to use broadheads. </p><p></p><p>Once these adjustments are made the broadheads should fly as accurately as your field points.</p><p></p><p>Hope this helps with your paper tuning problems.</p><p></p><p>Regards,</p><p></p><p>Jon</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="jon.henry755, post: 561062, member: 29115"] Hi WildWillie and bloodrock, For openers, paper tuning is only ever performed at a single distance. The reason for this is to achieve a basic alignment between your arrow rests center and your nocking point. It's not a perfect alignment, but it is a good starting point. Once you have this alignment it needs to be fine tuned on the range during actual shooting using the steps that I've outlined in other threads for tuning your broadheads. These same steps need to be applied for fine tuning your windage alignment to insure your crossbow is shooting straight at all distances. Currently you are attempting to over achieve an alignment during the paper tuning process and in doing so, you are causing yourselves more problems and confusion. Let's simplify the process as follows: 1. Do not shot bare shafts! At 15 yards, shoot one arrow at your paper and each time you repeat the process please insure you are using only that same arrow. 2. Shot one shot and adjust your nocking point only according to the tear that occurs. If you get a vertical tear adjust only your Whisker Biscuits elevation in the direction specified by PSE's paper tuning instructions. 3. Once you have a good bullet hole with clean holes from the arrow shaft and the vanes Stop there and proceed no further. Your paper tuning exercise is over and finished! Now it's time to set up your outdoor target and move to 20 yards to begin sighting in your scope and making a new series of adjustments. 4. Insure your scopes windage is set to approximately it's middle position. This is done by counting how many clicks you have in each direction remaining on your windage dial. (Write This information down). Now bring your scopes windage to it's center. Example: If your scope has a total of 200 clicks of windage, move it so you have about 100 clicks right and 100 clicks left. This is the center. 5 If using an HHA Optimizer Speed Dial make sure your Speed Dial is set on zero and not used during this process. 6. From a stable bench rested position take a shot at your targets center. I like to use a 1" florescent dot as my target at this and all other distances. 7. Wherever your arrow hits windage wise, you will now adjust both your arrow rest and nocking point in the same direction to compensate. To be clear about this, if your shot was three inches left of center you will move the Whisker Biscuit a tiny amount to the right and you will turn your nocking point serving one and a half turns to the right as well. You are doing this to move the shot to the right, but at the same time to maintain your alignment between the arrow rest and the nocking point. 8. You will continue making these adjustments at this distance until you have it as perfectly centered as possible. 9. Now using your scopes vertical adjustment, make whatever adjustments are necessary to bring your vertical alignment to the exact center of your target. Please let me know if you find that you don't have enough adjustments on your scope to achieve this. That means that you require shimming on your scope rings and there is a special set of rings made by Burris to fix this problem. 9. Once you complete this at 20 yards, you will now need to move back to 50 or 60 yards and perform the windage alignment at this distance. Remember to adjust your HHA Optimizer Speed Dial for this distance. At 50 yards it should be approximately 13.5 and at 60 yards it will be about 21. These settings will get you on the target and close to the center from an elevation point of view. What is most important is where your windage is now hitting on the target, so you can make a quick elevation adjustment to put your arrows height where you want it. If using an HHA Optimizer Speed Dial use your speed dial to make the elevation adjustment. If not using an Optimizer pick the correct MOA for the shot. For the windage, if your arrow is not in the exact center or same spot it was at 20 yards, this means that your windage is walking, which means the nocking point and arrow rest are not in exact alignment with one another. In these cases you only need to move the nocking point to achieve the final alignment. Move your nocking point either right or left until your arrow is hitting in the exact center of your target at 50 or 60 yards. 10. Once this has been achieved it is very important for you to move back into 20 yards and adjust your HHA Optimizer Speed Dial back down to zero and then shoot another arrow at 20 yards. Your arrow at 20 yards should be in the same spot windage wise as it was when you just finished at 50 or 60 yards. This now tells you that your crossbows nocking point to arrow rest alignment is perfect. 11. The last thing you now need to do is to use your scopes windage adjustment to perform any minor tweaks in windage in the event you need to move it a half inch or less one way o another. When finished you will have aligned your nocking point to arrow rest and then your scope to the path of the arrows alignment. What the paper tuner says at this point is useless and irrelevant. Also, please keep in mind that when you are performing this tuning exercise your arrows are being guided by the vanes in the rear of your arrows. Once you put a broadhead on your arrows anything other than a mechanical head will take over flght control and steering is guided by the front end of the arrow and your vanes are acting as flight stabilizers. this means that any windage deviations that could not have been seen during back end fight control will become magnified by the broadhead. This means most of us have had to readjust out windage by moving our nocking point and arrow rest to compensate for flight differences when setting up to use broadheads. Once these adjustments are made the broadheads should fly as accurately as your field points. Hope this helps with your paper tuning problems. Regards, Jon [/QUOTE]
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