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Hunting
The Basics, Starting Out
AR10 - can 6.5CM and 308Win uppers use same lower (buffer/spring)?
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<blockquote data-quote="epc001" data-source="post: 2794113" data-attributes="member: 124620"><p>RABAZ, I can drop powder charges radically for my LR308 w/o issue, whereas those same pressure make my old "steampunk" M1 double tap or lock up. Load 'er down if terminal velocities aren't a critical issue. Most of my iron, bolt or gas, groups better at less than max anyhow.</p><p></p><p>PS I assembled an old carry top AR15 with a .223 Wylde barrel and a adjustable gas block. What's neat about the adj gas block is for the 100 yd CMP open sight shoots, you can load it down some, and set the gas block to not slam the bolt back hard. Becomes the most gentle shooting .223 you ever did hug. FWIW.</p><p> </p><p>Powder charge is your friend here unless you make a mechanical adjustment in the rifle, which is preferred only if you're wishing to keep velocities high. Otherwise take 2 grains out and see how it runs and groups. HAVE FUN!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="epc001, post: 2794113, member: 124620"] RABAZ, I can drop powder charges radically for my LR308 w/o issue, whereas those same pressure make my old "steampunk" M1 double tap or lock up. Load 'er down if terminal velocities aren't a critical issue. Most of my iron, bolt or gas, groups better at less than max anyhow. PS I assembled an old carry top AR15 with a .223 Wylde barrel and a adjustable gas block. What's neat about the adj gas block is for the 100 yd CMP open sight shoots, you can load it down some, and set the gas block to not slam the bolt back hard. Becomes the most gentle shooting .223 you ever did hug. FWIW. Powder charge is your friend here unless you make a mechanical adjustment in the rifle, which is preferred only if you're wishing to keep velocities high. Otherwise take 2 grains out and see how it runs and groups. HAVE FUN! [/QUOTE]
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The Basics, Starting Out
AR10 - can 6.5CM and 308Win uppers use same lower (buffer/spring)?
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