Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
Articles
Latest reviews
Author list
Classifieds
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Hunting
Long Range Hunting & Shooting
AR-10 / LR308 bolt gas ring fit?
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Darryle" data-source="post: 2625351" data-attributes="member: 109917"><p>Measure the face depth versus the original Aero bolt, any difference?</p><p></p><p>Gas rings provide the seal, the key will provides the relationship of location depending on where the bolt is during the cycle, think of the upper as a track and the key as the train following the track.</p><p></p><p>Measure the 2 firing pins overall lengths, is the JP longer?</p><p></p><p>What primers? Are these reloads, 7.62x51 or 308 factory?</p><p></p><p>Mil-Spec primers are harder to eliminate an accidental discharge due to FP bounce, the firing pin is not captured, hence the reason you see the impression of the FP on rounds that were chambered from the magazine during firing but not fired themselves.</p><p></p><p>I have dealt with this in the past, tolerance stacking happens with ARs, you have so many variables, that you wind up on either side of ideal.</p><p></p><p>Have you tried the Aero bolt and FP? If not, that is my first suggestion. If you get cratering but no pierced primers, then I would try the Aero pin in the JP bolt, verify that it will fit thru the FP hole, if it runs with no cratering or pierced primers, the answer is tolerance stacking.</p><p></p><p>The solution is call JP and explain the situation, order a new pin, use the Aero pin with the JP bolt or lightly polish the JP pin until the piercing stops.</p><p></p><p>For polishing, I use a cordless drill set to the fastest rpm, chuck the pin up and use the finest paper you have, 600 grit or finer, followed by a run across some type of coarse cloth with some Flitz on it, just a touch to the face of the pin while moving in a fast arc so you keep the original radius of the pin, followed by a good polish. This may take 1 time or 20, you will get the hang of it, but don't rush or heat the pin excessively.</p><p></p><p>I have a drawer with 2 or 3 dozen out of spec pins, I dig thru them when this comes up measuring until I find one that is slightly shorter or longer as the case may require.</p><p></p><p>There is no true "Mil-Spec" with large frame ARS, issues arise more than they do with the AR-15 in the large frame.</p><p></p><p>Curious, What buffer are you running? Adjustable gas block? Setting?</p><p></p><p></p><p>****Edit to correct spelling errors*****</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Darryle, post: 2625351, member: 109917"] Measure the face depth versus the original Aero bolt, any difference? Gas rings provide the seal, the key will provides the relationship of location depending on where the bolt is during the cycle, think of the upper as a track and the key as the train following the track. Measure the 2 firing pins overall lengths, is the JP longer? What primers? Are these reloads, 7.62x51 or 308 factory? Mil-Spec primers are harder to eliminate an accidental discharge due to FP bounce, the firing pin is not captured, hence the reason you see the impression of the FP on rounds that were chambered from the magazine during firing but not fired themselves. I have dealt with this in the past, tolerance stacking happens with ARs, you have so many variables, that you wind up on either side of ideal. Have you tried the Aero bolt and FP? If not, that is my first suggestion. If you get cratering but no pierced primers, then I would try the Aero pin in the JP bolt, verify that it will fit thru the FP hole, if it runs with no cratering or pierced primers, the answer is tolerance stacking. The solution is call JP and explain the situation, order a new pin, use the Aero pin with the JP bolt or lightly polish the JP pin until the piercing stops. For polishing, I use a cordless drill set to the fastest rpm, chuck the pin up and use the finest paper you have, 600 grit or finer, followed by a run across some type of coarse cloth with some Flitz on it, just a touch to the face of the pin while moving in a fast arc so you keep the original radius of the pin, followed by a good polish. This may take 1 time or 20, you will get the hang of it, but don't rush or heat the pin excessively. I have a drawer with 2 or 3 dozen out of spec pins, I dig thru them when this comes up measuring until I find one that is slightly shorter or longer as the case may require. There is no true "Mil-Spec" with large frame ARS, issues arise more than they do with the AR-15 in the large frame. Curious, What buffer are you running? Adjustable gas block? Setting? ****Edit to correct spelling errors***** [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Hunting
Long Range Hunting & Shooting
AR-10 / LR308 bolt gas ring fit?
Top