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Long Range Hunting & Shooting
Anybody have a rifle malfunction that made them say what!
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<blockquote data-quote="Alibiiv" data-source="post: 1604121" data-attributes="member: 69192"><p>Hello Frog4aday, My safe is pretty much Ruger 77 tang safety rifles. I like to tinker with them to get them shooting better. From what you have described I am curious if the rifle was glass bedded improperly. It almost sounds like the rifle was glass bedded tightening the screw of the front recoil lug first and then the rear screw last (<em><u>if at all</u></em>), thus putting a lot of tension on the action. Another words the muzzle of the rifle was down tight against the forend of the stock while the glass was curing. When I glass bed the Ruger, I leave about 1/8th of an inch of factory wood between the recoil-lug-inlet and the magazine well inlet so that there's just a small amount of factory wood to support the stock both front and back, when I set the stock. I use an Irwin clamp in the middle of the action with enough tension on the clamp to hold the stock down while the glass is curing. I usually will clearance the wood by about 1/8-3/16 deep for about 4 inches in front of the recoil lug and then by about 1/16th down the rest of the barrel channel. I put a layer of plumber's tape (Brownells) down the entire length of the barrel starting from 4 inches in front of the recoil lug so that when the glass cures there's a neat .010 thousandths of an inch clearance down the entire length of the starting from 4 inches in front of the recoil lug; essentially floating the barrel from 4 inches in front of the recoil lug.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Alibiiv, post: 1604121, member: 69192"] Hello Frog4aday, My safe is pretty much Ruger 77 tang safety rifles. I like to tinker with them to get them shooting better. From what you have described I am curious if the rifle was glass bedded improperly. It almost sounds like the rifle was glass bedded tightening the screw of the front recoil lug first and then the rear screw last ([I][U]if at all[/U][/I]), thus putting a lot of tension on the action. Another words the muzzle of the rifle was down tight against the forend of the stock while the glass was curing. When I glass bed the Ruger, I leave about 1/8th of an inch of factory wood between the recoil-lug-inlet and the magazine well inlet so that there's just a small amount of factory wood to support the stock both front and back, when I set the stock. I use an Irwin clamp in the middle of the action with enough tension on the clamp to hold the stock down while the glass is curing. I usually will clearance the wood by about 1/8-3/16 deep for about 4 inches in front of the recoil lug and then by about 1/16th down the rest of the barrel channel. I put a layer of plumber's tape (Brownells) down the entire length of the barrel starting from 4 inches in front of the recoil lug so that when the glass cures there's a neat .010 thousandths of an inch clearance down the entire length of the starting from 4 inches in front of the recoil lug; essentially floating the barrel from 4 inches in front of the recoil lug. [/QUOTE]
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Anybody have a rifle malfunction that made them say what!
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