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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Another Savage Question
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<blockquote data-quote="Trickymissfit" data-source="post: 439991" data-attributes="member: 25383"><p>The "J Model" came in a lot of different calibers, but most you ever saw were in .308 and 22-250. The first one I ever saw shot .30" groups, one right after another. Had the wood stock and was a very dull matte finish all over. This was in a time when a good varmit rig was struggeling to shoot in the sixes. You might want to date the gun, and there was a couple revisions made back in that time frame (bolt head mostly). The one real problem you'll encounter is with the stock. If you decide to replace it you may have a very narrow selection (I think Sharpshooter sells them for the "J"). I think that the triggers are all similar up to the advent of the Accutrigger, and Sharpshooter makes a good one. </p><p> </p><p>I'd send the action over to Fred at Sharpshooter, and have him time and true the action. As well as installing the best trigger he has. And while at it have him cut one of his barrels in whatever caliber you desire (just about anything will fit). The stock can be pillar bedded, and Fred can supply the pillars and a new recoil lug. The one real problem you may encounter is the scope bases. There seems to be a couple different patterns, and you'll want to look for a long scope instead of a short one. That is unless Farrell or somebody else makes a solid base for the "J" action. I do recommend a one piece base! Of course if you go with a rail mount the scope length problem dissappears.</p><p> </p><p>Those older wood stock have a lot of wood in them, and if you have small hands (like I do) it becomes a problem. Some guys actually build up the area between the trigger guard and the pistol grip with plastic wood or even fiber glass. Then recut it and sand it to shape. I did that with one laminated stock, and it made a big difference. I'd also relieve the barrel channel and sand the bottom of the forend flat. And there's enough stock to cut it for the length of pull you desire. If you rebed the action into the wood, be sure to leave the tang area free floating. </p><p> </p><p>So how will it shoot? Probably better than the 40X unless you dump $2K in it. </p><p>gary</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Trickymissfit, post: 439991, member: 25383"] The "J Model" came in a lot of different calibers, but most you ever saw were in .308 and 22-250. The first one I ever saw shot .30" groups, one right after another. Had the wood stock and was a very dull matte finish all over. This was in a time when a good varmit rig was struggeling to shoot in the sixes. You might want to date the gun, and there was a couple revisions made back in that time frame (bolt head mostly). The one real problem you'll encounter is with the stock. If you decide to replace it you may have a very narrow selection (I think Sharpshooter sells them for the "J"). I think that the triggers are all similar up to the advent of the Accutrigger, and Sharpshooter makes a good one. I'd send the action over to Fred at Sharpshooter, and have him time and true the action. As well as installing the best trigger he has. And while at it have him cut one of his barrels in whatever caliber you desire (just about anything will fit). The stock can be pillar bedded, and Fred can supply the pillars and a new recoil lug. The one real problem you may encounter is the scope bases. There seems to be a couple different patterns, and you'll want to look for a long scope instead of a short one. That is unless Farrell or somebody else makes a solid base for the "J" action. I do recommend a one piece base! Of course if you go with a rail mount the scope length problem dissappears. Those older wood stock have a lot of wood in them, and if you have small hands (like I do) it becomes a problem. Some guys actually build up the area between the trigger guard and the pistol grip with plastic wood or even fiber glass. Then recut it and sand it to shape. I did that with one laminated stock, and it made a big difference. I'd also relieve the barrel channel and sand the bottom of the forend flat. And there's enough stock to cut it for the length of pull you desire. If you rebed the action into the wood, be sure to leave the tang area free floating. So how will it shoot? Probably better than the 40X unless you dump $2K in it. gary [/QUOTE]
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