Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
Articles
Latest reviews
Author list
Classifieds
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Annealing with lead - process?
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Mikecr" data-source="post: 403268" data-attributes="member: 1521"><p>Sounds to me like your all over it tlk.</p><p>I think you could go in/out even slower and be plenty safe. The case heads would be beyond the point of peeling your skin before there is any stress relieving that far up(450deg). I use a leather glove and take my sweet time.</p><p>You also need to make sure your lead is not overcooling as the brass accepts some of the lead's energy. With my pot, the lead will drop ~50deg with each dip. But I use a little more lead than you.</p><p></p><p>There will not be alot of discoloration that you may be used to comparing new brass(like Lapua). You are NOT annealing, because you aren't forming a shoulder and neck from a straight columb like Lapua is. Unless you're forming a completely new wildcat from brass, there is never ever a need or desire to anneal as a factory has initially done. This would just be a setback.</p><p>You only want to relieve stress in the worked area of cases.</p><p>With this, you should see a moderate tanning(5-O-Clock shadow) of the area heated when you pull the cases from your water. If you're not measuring your lead temp, tweak it & your timing to get a light tanning.</p><p></p><p>Anyway, once you got it, you got it. Easy & quick from then on.</p><p>And I think you're pretty much there.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Mikecr, post: 403268, member: 1521"] Sounds to me like your all over it tlk. I think you could go in/out even slower and be plenty safe. The case heads would be beyond the point of peeling your skin before there is any stress relieving that far up(450deg). I use a leather glove and take my sweet time. You also need to make sure your lead is not overcooling as the brass accepts some of the lead's energy. With my pot, the lead will drop ~50deg with each dip. But I use a little more lead than you. There will not be alot of discoloration that you may be used to comparing new brass(like Lapua). You are NOT annealing, because you aren't forming a shoulder and neck from a straight columb like Lapua is. Unless you're forming a completely new wildcat from brass, there is never ever a need or desire to anneal as a factory has initially done. This would just be a setback. You only want to relieve stress in the worked area of cases. With this, you should see a moderate tanning(5-O-Clock shadow) of the area heated when you pull the cases from your water. If you're not measuring your lead temp, tweak it & your timing to get a light tanning. Anyway, once you got it, you got it. Easy & quick from then on. And I think you're pretty much there. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Annealing with lead - process?
Top