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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Annealing with lead - process?
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<blockquote data-quote="tlk" data-source="post: 403124" data-attributes="member: 11397"><p>OK, I have tried Mike's process and it is good to go. Will hopefully get some pics up when I do it again. Some things I found:</p><p> </p><p>-I put only enough lead into the pot to cover the neck and the shoulder (stop at the shoulder base) of my 30-06 cases (in my Lyman 20 pot this is 3 pounds). This allows me to start up faster and also allows me to put the case in until it hits the bottom of the pot so I dont have to watch how deeply dip it in - every case is extrememly consistent with respect to depth of immersion.</p><p> </p><p>-I took the temp of my pot at its various settings both empty and with the lead. For my pot anyway, the settings are different when there is lead in there. It was also revealing as to the temperture overlap with each setting. This was important because I now know what temp the heater turns on and off at each setting, and therefore know what setting I need to be at optimally (instead of just "turning it on until the lead melts").</p><p> </p><p>-Outside temps and fans will modify the lead temp. Started at 102 deg F, and wound up annealing at 84 (cloud came over, cool wid) - this jacked with the temp severely, so if you are trying to hit a certain temp this may need to be watched. The other thing with this - it seems that lead is ALWAYS looking for a reason to "congeal", and cools to that point FAST. It just doesnt seem to reatain a specific range of heat for annealing very well when evironmental factors change.</p><p> </p><p>-I didn't use Mobil 1, I used Peak 10W-30. Worked much the same, but I got smoking at 4-5 seconds in the lead. IOW, after 7 seconds or so, I wonder if I would get some sticking of lead. Otherwise, they came out clean - what little lead was on there came off with a paper towel. Threw them in water immediately after the lead dip.</p><p> </p><p>- I don't know how long to leave it in there, really. What I did was slowly lower the case in, leave it for 4 seconds, and puled it out. This left me with a case head that was easily handled. 5-6 seconds made the case head hot to the touch, but was still able to hold it. The bigger question I have is if the upper half of the case body is being annealed as well. Mike, any advice you have here will be greatly appreciated.</p><p> </p><p>-I saw hardly any annealing signs at all.</p><p> </p><p>I threw the cases into my ultrasonic cleaner and all of the crud came off. Then I threw them into a tumber just to get them dry and polished. Everything was good to go from there.</p><p> </p><p>Mike, any additional comments/ help you have would be greatly appreciated.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="tlk, post: 403124, member: 11397"] OK, I have tried Mike's process and it is good to go. Will hopefully get some pics up when I do it again. Some things I found: -I put only enough lead into the pot to cover the neck and the shoulder (stop at the shoulder base) of my 30-06 cases (in my Lyman 20 pot this is 3 pounds). This allows me to start up faster and also allows me to put the case in until it hits the bottom of the pot so I dont have to watch how deeply dip it in - every case is extrememly consistent with respect to depth of immersion. -I took the temp of my pot at its various settings both empty and with the lead. For my pot anyway, the settings are different when there is lead in there. It was also revealing as to the temperture overlap with each setting. This was important because I now know what temp the heater turns on and off at each setting, and therefore know what setting I need to be at optimally (instead of just "turning it on until the lead melts"). -Outside temps and fans will modify the lead temp. Started at 102 deg F, and wound up annealing at 84 (cloud came over, cool wid) - this jacked with the temp severely, so if you are trying to hit a certain temp this may need to be watched. The other thing with this - it seems that lead is ALWAYS looking for a reason to "congeal", and cools to that point FAST. It just doesnt seem to reatain a specific range of heat for annealing very well when evironmental factors change. -I didn't use Mobil 1, I used Peak 10W-30. Worked much the same, but I got smoking at 4-5 seconds in the lead. IOW, after 7 seconds or so, I wonder if I would get some sticking of lead. Otherwise, they came out clean - what little lead was on there came off with a paper towel. Threw them in water immediately after the lead dip. - I don't know how long to leave it in there, really. What I did was slowly lower the case in, leave it for 4 seconds, and puled it out. This left me with a case head that was easily handled. 5-6 seconds made the case head hot to the touch, but was still able to hold it. The bigger question I have is if the upper half of the case body is being annealed as well. Mike, any advice you have here will be greatly appreciated. -I saw hardly any annealing signs at all. I threw the cases into my ultrasonic cleaner and all of the crud came off. Then I threw them into a tumber just to get them dry and polished. Everything was good to go from there. Mike, any additional comments/ help you have would be greatly appreciated. [/QUOTE]
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Annealing with lead - process?
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