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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Annealing with lead - process?
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<blockquote data-quote="Mikecr" data-source="post: 373725" data-attributes="member: 1521"><p>My cases are deprimed and unsized/clean before oil/lead dipping. I allow lead to enter the case freely.</p><p>I only heat the areas needed. Necks for consistent tension,, shoulders for consistent headspacing. </p><p>The WSSM example is an extreme(as everything is with that brass).</p><p></p><p>My timing is no more precise than needed to prevent sticking lead. Slowly in allows the oil to leave one of it's additives on the brass surface as it expands away from heat, and slow in prevents quenching the lead so much that it could cool/solidify at contact points.</p><p>You will see the rate that brass temps match lead as you're going in.</p><p>The need to go slow out is just like the need to pull a sticker from a surface consistently -without shearing it.</p><p>I doubt any particular timing is needed to get thin brass to the temperature of the lead. After all, the brass is being heated from both inside and out.</p><p></p><p>When I get a chance, I'll post details of the pot & thermocouple I use.. There is probably something out there that integrates these for a reasonable cost. Better lead might offer advantages. Integrated ventilation(fume hood)..</p><p>If y'all think of improvements, or a better or easier way, I'd appreciate a discussion to that end.</p><p>Lately, I'm chomping at the bit to try my hand at inductive heating.</p><p>If it's as good as lead dip(tested & verified), and I can do it indoors,, that would be the ticket.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Mikecr, post: 373725, member: 1521"] My cases are deprimed and unsized/clean before oil/lead dipping. I allow lead to enter the case freely. I only heat the areas needed. Necks for consistent tension,, shoulders for consistent headspacing. The WSSM example is an extreme(as everything is with that brass). My timing is no more precise than needed to prevent sticking lead. Slowly in allows the oil to leave one of it’s additives on the brass surface as it expands away from heat, and slow in prevents quenching the lead so much that it could cool/solidify at contact points. You will see the rate that brass temps match lead as you’re going in. The need to go slow out is just like the need to pull a sticker from a surface consistently -without shearing it. I doubt any particular timing is needed to get thin brass to the temperature of the lead. After all, the brass is being heated from both inside and out. When I get a chance, I’ll post details of the pot & thermocouple I use.. There is probably something out there that integrates these for a reasonable cost. Better lead might offer advantages. Integrated ventilation(fume hood).. If y’all think of improvements, or a better or easier way, I’d appreciate a discussion to that end. Lately, I’m chomping at the bit to try my hand at inductive heating. If it’s as good as lead dip(tested & verified), and I can do it indoors,, that would be the ticket. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Annealing with lead - process?
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