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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Annealing: Specific Heat Question
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<blockquote data-quote="Mikecr" data-source="post: 2737034" data-attributes="member: 1521"><p>Brass does not come to you fully annealed. It's hardened an appropriate amount.</p><p>So you don't need to be fully annealing. Your goal should be grain recovery back to appropriate hardness.</p><p>Once brass reaches this recovery temperature (750F-1,000F) what we need happens very fast (within ~5 seconds). At that temp 5 seconds or 50 seconds makes no difference. You're not going to hurt anything.</p><p></p><p>But when you're applying way way higher temps, that's when you need careful timing control, to get your brass at the right temperature and no hotter. Otherwise, you'll end up with inconsistent or wrong hardness.</p><p></p><p>Where dip annealing works so well is that it immediately takes brass to the exact temperature desired. No more, no less.</p><p>The brass is heated from both inside and outside simultaneously.</p><p>There is really no timing to be concerned with. You just hand dip any cases as deep as you want. Takes about 10 seconds each.</p><p>Because heat (that is not excess) is only applied for this short period, there is little to no heat migration. I hold case heads with bare hands, and initially I dip to mid case bodies. Later I only need neck or maybe shoulder relaxing.</p><p></p><p>I haven't observed cases in the dark (I do this in the light), but there is not much temper or color change with this. Just a little shading.</p><p>More like Norma's brass appears.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Mikecr, post: 2737034, member: 1521"] Brass does not come to you fully annealed. It's hardened an appropriate amount. So you don't need to be fully annealing. Your goal should be grain recovery back to appropriate hardness. Once brass reaches this recovery temperature (750F-1,000F) what we need happens very fast (within ~5 seconds). At that temp 5 seconds or 50 seconds makes no difference. You're not going to hurt anything. But when you're applying way way higher temps, that's when you need careful timing control, to get your brass at the right temperature and no hotter. Otherwise, you'll end up with inconsistent or wrong hardness. Where dip annealing works so well is that it immediately takes brass to the exact temperature desired. No more, no less. The brass is heated from both inside and outside simultaneously. There is really no timing to be concerned with. You just hand dip any cases as deep as you want. Takes about 10 seconds each. Because heat (that is not excess) is only applied for this short period, there is little to no heat migration. I hold case heads with bare hands, and initially I dip to mid case bodies. Later I only need neck or maybe shoulder relaxing. I haven't observed cases in the dark (I do this in the light), but there is not much temper or color change with this. Just a little shading. More like Norma's brass appears. [/QUOTE]
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Annealing: Specific Heat Question
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