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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Annealing Question ???
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<blockquote data-quote="jrock" data-source="post: 1102268" data-attributes="member: 78569"><p>I read an article about annealing that said to take a brand new case and use a pair of vise grips to calibrate the force it requires to just deform the neck, using the stop of the vise grip to prevent deforming it too much. Then go to your brass and compare the deformations. If it doesn't deform the same with the same pressure, then you need to anneal. I used this method to calibrate the amount of time and location of the flame on the case shoulder to match the new case. Not surprisingly, the results showed that a holding the flame for 5 to 6 seconds yielded perfect results. </p><p>In an absolutely dark room, the case will just start to turn blue in that time. You can't tell at all in light. Air cooling after this method won't result in over heating of the base. But I still drop them in water as an added safety measure so hot brass isn't rolling around.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="jrock, post: 1102268, member: 78569"] I read an article about annealing that said to take a brand new case and use a pair of vise grips to calibrate the force it requires to just deform the neck, using the stop of the vise grip to prevent deforming it too much. Then go to your brass and compare the deformations. If it doesn't deform the same with the same pressure, then you need to anneal. I used this method to calibrate the amount of time and location of the flame on the case shoulder to match the new case. Not surprisingly, the results showed that a holding the flame for 5 to 6 seconds yielded perfect results. In an absolutely dark room, the case will just start to turn blue in that time. You can't tell at all in light. Air cooling after this method won't result in over heating of the base. But I still drop them in water as an added safety measure so hot brass isn't rolling around. [/QUOTE]
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Reloading
Annealing Question ???
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