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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Annealing Lapua brass
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<blockquote data-quote="Greyfox" data-source="post: 853166" data-attributes="member: 10291"><p>With my 6.5x284 using Lapua brass, I anneal every 4-5 firings, and also push the shoulders back at the same time since I neck size. I use a Benchsource annealer but it's not necessary to do a good job if your are consistent. It is very convenient, fast and consisent, particularly if you do a lot of shooting. I have found no difference annealing with accuracy or ES before or after other than it gives me one more cycle if I do it after annealing. One key point. After you anneal, you will feel a difference in bullet seating pressure. This is not caused by a change in the plyabilty of the brass, but a change in the surface structure of the brass. It will disappear after the next firing but if you size right after annealing you should use a little Imperial wax as to not scratch your dye bushing, particularly if they are untreated steel. If you expand, put a little right at the mouth of the case. I also use a very small amount on the bullet or mouth of the case to keep the bullet from requiring high seating pressure and possibly causing runout issues. I have scratched and ruined steel bushings and dyes whe sizing freshly annealed brass that was not lubed. I think that the annealing process causes crystals to form on the surface. If have noticed the same effect when using an expander with new Lapua brass. I do notice a discoloring of the brass similar to new Lapua brass after annealing. Using this process I can get 10-20 reloads with my brass. IMO.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Greyfox, post: 853166, member: 10291"] With my 6.5x284 using Lapua brass, I anneal every 4-5 firings, and also push the shoulders back at the same time since I neck size. I use a Benchsource annealer but it's not necessary to do a good job if your are consistent. It is very convenient, fast and consisent, particularly if you do a lot of shooting. I have found no difference annealing with accuracy or ES before or after other than it gives me one more cycle if I do it after annealing. One key point. After you anneal, you will feel a difference in bullet seating pressure. This is not caused by a change in the plyabilty of the brass, but a change in the surface structure of the brass. It will disappear after the next firing but if you size right after annealing you should use a little Imperial wax as to not scratch your dye bushing, particularly if they are untreated steel. If you expand, put a little right at the mouth of the case. I also use a very small amount on the bullet or mouth of the case to keep the bullet from requiring high seating pressure and possibly causing runout issues. I have scratched and ruined steel bushings and dyes whe sizing freshly annealed brass that was not lubed. I think that the annealing process causes crystals to form on the surface. If have noticed the same effect when using an expander with new Lapua brass. I do notice a discoloring of the brass similar to new Lapua brass after annealing. Using this process I can get 10-20 reloads with my brass. IMO. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Annealing Lapua brass
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