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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Annealing 101
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<blockquote data-quote="Mikecr" data-source="post: 1925000" data-attributes="member: 1521"><p>Salt or lead. I've lead dipped for decades, but I can see that salt is easier to work with.</p><p></p><p>Let's recap this: </p><p>Dip annealing is just as safe as fire. Don't dump it, or catch yourself on fire.</p><p>You turn on the melting pot, wait for the medium to melt, insert a thermocouple probe, tweak the pot setting until the medium settles to ~850degF as read on your probe meter, then dip each case to the depth desired (any) for about 10sec (or any other amount of time over a few seconds, makes no difference). You don't need to quench the cases, just put em in a pile for cleanup later. And if that medium temperature swings +/- 50 or even 100degF, that doesn't matter either. It's enough & not too much</p><p></p><p>You're not trying to time a flame, which is way in excess of desired annealing temperature, and burning off zinc from the alloy (leaving that temper you think you want). Here, you're heating brass from inner and outer sides at once so that it's grain structure is consistent through brass thickness (not softer on outside while harder on inside).</p><p>You'll see nearly zero color change from properly stress relieved cases, and by 'properly' I'm talking about the baseline which you've load developed with and manage consistently from then onward. </p><p>You don't want your brass or load results to change with this -ever. The whole purpose of this is to eliminate or at least reduce change from desired condition.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Mikecr, post: 1925000, member: 1521"] Salt or lead. I've lead dipped for decades, but I can see that salt is easier to work with. Let's recap this: Dip annealing is just as safe as fire. Don't dump it, or catch yourself on fire. You turn on the melting pot, wait for the medium to melt, insert a thermocouple probe, tweak the pot setting until the medium settles to ~850degF as read on your probe meter, then dip each case to the depth desired (any) for about 10sec (or any other amount of time over a few seconds, makes no difference). You don't need to quench the cases, just put em in a pile for cleanup later. And if that medium temperature swings +/- 50 or even 100degF, that doesn't matter either. It's enough & not too much You're not trying to time a flame, which is way in excess of desired annealing temperature, and burning off zinc from the alloy (leaving that temper you think you want). Here, you're heating brass from inner and outer sides at once so that it's grain structure is consistent through brass thickness (not softer on outside while harder on inside). You'll see nearly zero color change from properly stress relieved cases, and by 'properly' I'm talking about the baseline which you've load developed with and manage consistently from then onward. You don't want your brass or load results to change with this -ever. The whole purpose of this is to eliminate or at least reduce change from desired condition. [/QUOTE]
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Annealing 101
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