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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Long Range Scopes and Other Optics
Advice on Long Range Scope Zero
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<blockquote data-quote="StanleyActual" data-source="post: 2246846" data-attributes="member: 119220"><p>what's incorrect is unless you're speaking in regards to an optic with a capped elevation and not modern target turrets. then dialing for POA/POI is not the same thing as your baseline zero of your weapon system. The reason folks did that back in the day was due to the facts they were limited by their equipments capabilities</p><p>(ie duplex reticles, and capped elevation / windage).</p><p></p><p>I am not "re-zeroing" my rifle everytime I touch my turrets</p><p></p><p>1 reason you "zero" at 100 is environmental factors are irrelavant at 100yd. Wind does make a difference at 200 and if rather not have a XX mph wind figured into my "true" zero.. Being that environmentals are irelavant at 100, this ensures that I will not have to "re-zero" my rifle every time I move to a new location. True zero stays the same, but my dopes past that, where environmentals play more of a part,!will change. Easily compensated for with a quick spin of the turret.</p><p></p><p>With 100 yd zero, all your adjustments are up. All your doing by pushing your zero range down range is now you have to make adjustments up AND down, not to mention the fact you've just required yourself to have to make an adjustment when the target is closer to you which means you have less time to make that adjustment. Distance affords you time</p><p></p><p>With modern optics, There is literally nothing to be gained by zeroing @ anything other than 100 yds. There's no advantage to it. Flat and fast was king back in the day due to the fact it extended the range at which you could engage a target without the need to make any adjustments. Although that is stil an imporatnt factor for LR shooting. It becomes "less" important at the closer ranges when you have the ability to rapidly and accurately dial or hold straight to a given range and the farther that target is for you, the more time you have to make that adjustment</p><p></p><p>zero at 100, where environments play no part in your zero.. Then dial up to whatever range you want to. Ie your MPBR, and you you know that unless a target pops up further down range than your MPB, there's no adjustment needed. If it does pop up down range outside of your MOBR, you have the time to make a quick POA/POI adjustment to it turret.</p><p></p><p>when the hunt is over. Spin your turret back down to your true zero and your done</p><p></p><p>Don't complicate it. If I have a RF in my pocket, I won't be milling my target. Same original applies here.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="StanleyActual, post: 2246846, member: 119220"] what’s incorrect is unless you’re speaking in regards to an optic with a capped elevation and not modern target turrets. then dialing for POA/POI is not the same thing as your baseline zero of your weapon system. The reason folks did that back in the day was due to the facts they were limited by their equipments capabilities (ie duplex reticles, and capped elevation / windage). I am not “re-zeroing” my rifle everytime I touch my turrets 1 reason you “zero” at 100 is environmental factors are irrelavant at 100yd. Wind does make a difference at 200 and if rather not have a XX mph wind figured into my “true” zero.. Being that environmentals are irelavant at 100, this ensures that I will not have to “re-zero” my rifle every time I move to a new location. True zero stays the same, but my dopes past that, where environmentals play more of a part,!will change. Easily compensated for with a quick spin of the turret. With 100 yd zero, all your adjustments are up. All your doing by pushing your zero range down range is now you have to make adjustments up AND down, not to mention the fact you’ve just required yourself to have to make an adjustment when the target is closer to you which means you have less time to make that adjustment. Distance affords you time With modern optics, There is literally nothing to be gained by zeroing @ anything other than 100 yds. There’s no advantage to it. Flat and fast was king back in the day due to the fact it extended the range at which you could engage a target without the need to make any adjustments. Although that is stil an imporatnt factor for LR shooting. It becomes “less” important at the closer ranges when you have the ability to rapidly and accurately dial or hold straight to a given range and the farther that target is for you, the more time you have to make that adjustment zero at 100, where environments play no part in your zero.. Then dial up to whatever range you want to. Ie your MPBR, and you you know that unless a target pops up further down range than your MPB, there’s no adjustment needed. If it does pop up down range outside of your MOBR, you have the time to make a quick POA/POI adjustment to it turret. when the hunt is over. Spin your turret back down to your true zero and your done Don’t complicate it. If I have a RF in my pocket, I won’t be milling my target. Same original applies here. [/QUOTE]
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Advice on Long Range Scope Zero
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