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Advice for grouping
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<blockquote data-quote="Coyote_Hunter" data-source="post: 1738474" data-attributes="member: 110773"><p>What is "factory ammo"?</p><p></p><p>OK, I have a few boxes on my shelves, along with thousands of handloads. Every time I buy a new rifle I shoot a few factory rounds through it to get an idea what to expect in the way the primers look afterwards, zeroing the scope, etc. One thing I pay little to no attention to is group size with factory ammo.</p><p></p><p>All my rifles are hunters. Some shoot half MOA or better, others just over MOA and some of the levers about 1.5MOA. I've achieved hits on clay pigeons on the 600-yard berm with multiple rifles, including .257 Roberts, 6.5-06AI, .280 Rem, 7mm RM, .30-06, .300WM and .338WM. Not every shot is a hit, but 40% hit rates are fairly common with some of the rifles when the wind cooperates and 80% is my high.</p><p></p><p>With factory ammo I might have to search long and hard for that kind of success. 10" steel plates at 600, not so much.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Coyote_Hunter, post: 1738474, member: 110773"] What is "factory ammo"? OK, I have a few boxes on my shelves, along with thousands of handloads. Every time I buy a new rifle I shoot a few factory rounds through it to get an idea what to expect in the way the primers look afterwards, zeroing the scope, etc. One thing I pay little to no attention to is group size with factory ammo. All my rifles are hunters. Some shoot half MOA or better, others just over MOA and some of the levers about 1.5MOA. I've achieved hits on clay pigeons on the 600-yard berm with multiple rifles, including .257 Roberts, 6.5-06AI, .280 Rem, 7mm RM, .30-06, .300WM and .338WM. Not every shot is a hit, but 40% hit rates are fairly common with some of the rifles when the wind cooperates and 80% is my high. With factory ammo I might have to search long and hard for that kind of success. 10" steel plates at 600, not so much. [/QUOTE]
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